Dream and Dine

STORY OF SURABAYA

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SURABAYA NOW AND THEN

Surabaya, the energetic capital city of East Java, has a population approachin­g 3 million and is a melting pot of cultures, attitudes and flavours.

With a long history, Surabaya was one of the first true port cities in the region and competed with Hong Kong and Shanghai in terms of importance through the 18th and 19th centuries. Until 1920, it was the largest city in Java and a centre of trade based upon the inland plantation­s and produce from the Spice Islands. Located on the coast of East Java at the edge of the Straits of Madura, it holds strategic military importance and was home to the Dutch East Indies fleet and is today the headquarte­rs of Indonesia’s Eastern Fleet.

Today, 21st century Surabaya is a vibrant metropolis with modern skyscraper­s towering over both traditiona­l and modern homes, canals and colonial buildings. Like many port cities, it features an Arab Quarter and a Chinatown that grew as traders, sailors and migrant workers settled and added their own unique cultures and cuisines to the city.

INDEPENDEN­CE AND SHOPPING

Surabaya is known as Kota Pahlawan, or the City of Heroes, a reference to the Battle of Surabaya which, although the Indonesian side lost, was the catalyst that stimulated support for the fledgling independen­ce movement both at home and in the wider internatio­nal community. It was a pivotal moment and the city recognises this with numerous commemorat­ive statues, displays and other references to the struggle that led to Indonesia’s 1945 Declaratio­n of Independen­ce and the formation of the Republic of Indonesia.

Aside from its heritage landmarks and colonial architectu­re, Surabaya is a shopper’s paradise and has some of the most impressive malls in Indonesia. The largest, Pakuwon Mall and Tunjungan Plaza,

are family orientated with hundreds of shops, restaurant­s and lifestyle outlets found within. For an exciting market experience try the hustle and bustle of Pasar Keputih or Pucang Anom, or the traditiona­l fish market, Pasar Ikan Pabean.

For adventurer­s Surabaya is the gateway to East Java and in particular the Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park, Java’s most recognisab­le and beautiful vista. The park is home to the Tenggerese people, who practice a unique mix of Hinduism infused with animism and Buddhism and claim a direct bloodline from the Majapahit princes of old.

DINING OUT

The dining and nightlife in the city is a reflection of the city’s people and the large Muslim majority has naturally led to huge numbers of halal cafés and restaurant­s serving both local and Arabicinsp­ired food. The area around Ampel Mosque has the atmosphere and appearance of a North African medina, with narrow lanes marked by arched gateways adorned with Arabic script. It is here you will discover the most authentic Arabic and North African food. The city also boasts excellent local street food and a plethora of internatio­nal options with some outstandin­g French, Italian, Japanese, Indian and Cantonese restaurant­s in particular, alongside a collection of innovative and sophistica­ted bars.

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