THE NEXT GREAT SINGAPORE CUISINE? Local chefs dissect the complexity of Mod-sin cuisine and its future

Singapore food is gradually attracting accolades on the world stage. It captivated the late Anthony Bourdain and surprised gourmets worldwide with the cheapest Michelin-starred meal, but no one can give a definite answer as to what the cuisine really is. Chefs dissect its complexity and offer clues on where it's headed. By Jessica Chan and Victoria Lim

Waking up to a bowl of thin egg noodles, slathered in a spicy, tart concoction of sambal, braised mushrooms and black vinegar, is a ritual to many Singaporeans. Bak Chor Mee (minced meat noodles) didn’t start out tasting this way. Originally a Teochew dish, where thick egg noodles are submerged in rich yet clear pork broth and topped with minced pork, it has since been adapted into a dry version with black vinegar and sambal; the latter a common ingredient used by the Malays.

While the two versions continue to co-exist, the comfort food has metamorphosed into Mod-sin (modern Singaporean) dishes like Bak Chor Mee Pasta by Shen Tan or Bjorn Shen’s B.C.M Grilled Cheese for Loof, where a sourdough grilled cheese is stuffed generously with minced meat.

Evidently, local dishes passed down from generations before continue to be reinvented by Singaporean chefs, though some still stick to their guns to maintain authenticity – think Violet

Oon of National Kitchen by Violet Oon or Damian D'silva with his Eurasian-peranakan plates at Folklore – as it was enjoyed way before the island city’s independence. This is a glimpse into Singapore’s evolving food scene where the past and present influences converge. But it also begs the questions: What is Singaporean cuisine? Who are the chefs championing it? Where is the cuisine headed?

A blessing in disguise

Dissecting Singaporean cuisine in minute detail is no easy task. Han Li Guang, the avant-garde chef behind one Michelin-starred Labyrinth explains, “There is no defining dish when it comes to Singapore. In Japan, there’s sushi or ramen; in Bangkok, there’s pad thai; and Korea has bibimbap. Our national dishes are often tagged to their country of origins, albeit having evolved into a version unique to us. Classics like Hainanese Chicken Rice (Hainan), Bak Kut Teh (Fujian or Klang) or Roti Prata (Chennai) are some examples.” D’silva, a champion of Singapore heritage food, adds on, “Our culinary heritage consists of more than just that (hawker food) – and the world needs to know that.” He is referring to dishes, particularly of Eurasian and Peranakan descent, created using zealously guarded family recipes shared within home kitchens. Old-school dishes just like his grandma used to make, such as Sambal Buah Keluak Fried Rice, Masak Nanas (prawn and pineapple curry) or Hati Babi Bungkus (minced pork and liver wrapped in caul fat) are not something one can order from, say, Lau Pa Sat or Amoy Street Food Centre.

Some see this crazy diversity as a crutch, but it could very well be the unique advantage Singapore, a young country of just 53 years, needs to stand out on the international culinary stage. Han is optimistic and agrees. “What makes us amazing is that we have no fixed definition.”

This belief extends into Mod-sin fare, a term coined by Willin Low of Wild Rocket circa 2005, where traditional Singapore flavours and ingredients are presented on a vastly different platform. And what’s intriguing about it? This experimental new subset of Singapore cuisine has no textbook definition as well. Han impresses with his out-of-the-box thinking in dishes like the Labyrinth Rojak using 10 different types of herbs, flowers and sprouts from locally-based Edible Garden City to recreate the Chinese-malay snack often found in hawker centres. Private chef Tan serves a Sweet Png Kueh pan-fried in brown butter and topped with cashew nut ice cream that’s unlike the pink, savoury Teochew rice cake. Malcolm Lee's modern interpretation of Peranakan cuisine over at one Michelin-starred Candlenut is a prime example of how time-honoured dishes have a place in the current and future dining landscape of Singapore (and, perhaps, the world). “It is great that everyone has their own style. Think of it this way: we have been given an entire box of crayons to draw with. There are no rules and the future of Mod-sin cuisine is as bright as you want it,” enthuses Tan.