Preserving Singapore’s heritage in style
But even as chefs continue to push the envelope of how laksa or chilli crab should be cooked, the key is celebrating the spirit of the original cuisine. “Without tradition, there would be no base for modern cuisine to build upon,” says Low. A firm understanding of the various cuisines making up Singapore’s is necessary. Low interned at the famed Roxy Laksa (one of Singapore’s earliest Katong Laksa peddlers, dating to 1952) for three months. The result: Low created Laksa, a sumptuous handmade spanner crab and chestnut ravioli swimming in the fiery, briny broth topped with a pesto of laksa leaves and candlenut.
Chefs have the talent to tap on nostalgia and use it to inspire inimitable plates that strike emotional resonance with diners. “Modern dishes must still be relatable and, yet, relevant to what the new age of diners want to see on their plates,” Lee rationalises. D’silva chimes in, “As the ingredient availability and palates now differ from generations before, I’ve changed or added new components to traditional recipes.”
“We went through the foundation stage of creating something that is truly ours, and then after many years, came the next wave of food flavours, Modsin. What might the food scene look like in a decade? I’m not sure, but all I know is that I got to keep doing what I’m doing – serving my dishes to families,” “Our culinary heritage consists of more than just that (hawker food) – and the world needs to know that.” One of the perennial champions of Singapore's heritage dishes, Damian D'silva at his restaurant, Folklore.