The next wave

“Without tradition, there would be no base for modern cuisine to build upon.” Willin Low of Wild Rocket coined the term Mod-sin in 2005 to describe his style of cooking

This begs another question: between the old culinary guards and ambassadors of Mod-sin cuisine, which camp can best propagate Singapore’s culinary future? The answer is, unsurprisingly, both.

“Coexistence is the only way forward.” says Low. Part of what makes a meal memorable draws from the story a dish, the restaurant and the chef is telling. Regardless of the presentation, the dishes many Singaporean chefs present are a reflection of themselves. Think of it as a translation of Singapore’s colourful story on a plate, one that’s well told by the people who live and breathe it. And one (locals or tourists) needs to realise that there is no singular right way to present the cuisine. “There’s no need to compare. Simply, be proud of all that make up our heritage,” enthuses Han. “As we continue to push forward, people will eventually have the right idea of what we are (as a culinary country).”

Restaurants of international acclaim like Candlenut and National Kitchen by Violet Oon as well as KF Seetoh’s (founder of Makansutra and Singapore food culture’s go-to guru) World Street Food Congress have sparked curiosity in locals and tourists who want in get on what ‘true Singaporean fare” is. Lee and Han have opened the eyes of many to the versatility of Southeast Asian ingredients like buah keluak, ginger flower and kaya, whether it's through social media or collaborations abroad. Best of all, Singapore brands are setting up outposts across the globe - Old Chang Kee in London and 328 Katong Laksa in Taipei, just to name a few. In October, Creatures will be bringing their famed Crayfish Hokkien Mee to Beijing (TEASE by Creatures). “These (overseas) locations provide a platform for diners to become familiarised with our cuisine,” explains Lee.

So, what will the next generation of Singaporean food look like? What’s the next frontier beyond this era’s Mod-sin? Just like before its independence, this metropolitan hub continues to gather influence - be it cooking techniques or ingredients - from abroad, and chefs (and homecooks) are becoming more audacious in their cooking, perhaps powered by modern conveniences like ready-to-cook rempah or Nyonya curry paste from the likes of Shermay Lee and Jeremy Nguee. Think Upside Down Goreng Pisang, Creatures’ take on the classic British cake, and Tans’ Savoury Mochi in Coconut Prawn Broth. There's no stopping that unique way of experimentation when it comes to Singapore cuisine. And the world is ready to sit back and watch what this island nation will offer next.