MASTERCLASS
Head-to-tail butchery is a large part of the sustainability movement in Western restaurants. Chef Sebastian Goh adopts a similar mindset at Yellow Pot, a contemporary Chinese diner.
Whole fish butchery
The sustainability movement has been one of the biggest gamechanging trends in the F&B industry. While Western diners are leading the charge with farm-to-table concepts and minimal waste menus, traditional Chinese restaurants have not followed suit.
Yellow Pot, however, is one of the few exceptions. Under Six Senses Duxton’s philosophy of nourishing and sustainable hospitality, Yellow Pot is one of the first Chinese restaurants in Singapore to be wholly committed to working towards full sustainability by carefully sourcing ingredients and reducing food waste. Its Chinese chef, Sebastian Goh, works closely with a wide range of sustainable suppliers, from vegetable farms in Malaysia, vertical farms in Singapore, to certified sustainable New Zealand fisheries harvesting wild-caught king prawns.
Goh adopts a methodical style of food preparation, withholding additives and focusing on natural products, taking his time to coax out their maximum flavour. Here, he meticulously crafts a three-course meal out of a single barramundi fish. The sustainable fish, courtesy of Kuhlbarra, is completely utilised right down to the bone.
After carefully filleting the fish, Goh sears the bones to a deep golden brown to develop a caramelised flavour, which results in rich, unctuous fish stock that can be used in soups or as a base for sauces. The browning of the bones is vital to the trio of barramundi; the Maillard reaction of the flesh is what produces the milky colour of the stock, which is often achieved in other establishments with the addition of carnation milk. This deeply-flavoured stock is then used as the sauce for the Steamed Barramundi. Try to get each piece to a portion size of 50g as the steaming time stated in the recipe is calibrated to this, and ensures they come out tender and flaky.
TRIO OF BARRAMUNDI
Serves 4 to 6 Prep time 40 minutes Cooking time 60 minutes
• 1.5kg whole barramundi
1.1 Descale the fish. Remove the head and cut it up into smaller pieces. Set aside.
1.2 Trim the fins. Remove the tail portion of the fish. Set aside.
1.3 Fillet the fish and portion them out into 5-7 pieces. Remove the belly portion of the fish and set aside.
1.4 Cut the bones into smaller pieces.
• 150ml cooking oil
• 80g ginger, julienned
• 60g spring onions, julienned
• 80g white onions, julienned
• 2 shallots
• 80g garlic, minced
• 1 lemongrass stalk, 1-inch piece and smashed
• 1.5l water
seasoning
• 1g sea salt
• 50g fish sauce
• 20g sugar
• 50ml Chinese cooking wine
• 10ml sesame oil
• 30g carnation milk (optional)
2.1 Rinse the head and bone trimmings.
2.2 Pour cooking oil into wok and place on high heat. Once hot, sear the trimmings until deep golden brown. Drain excess oil.
2.3 Add the ginger, spring onions, white onions, shallots, garlic and lemongrass into the wok. Stir-fry with the trimmings, about 3 minutes.
2.4 Add water. Bring it to a rolling boil for 2 minutes, then reduce to a simmer for 15 minutes.
2.5 Strain the stock. Reserve about 100ml of stock.
2.6 Thinly slice one of the fillet portions. Poach the slices in the stock for 2-3 minutes. Serve immediately.