DESTINATION DINING
Beyond the illuminating conference, the Spanish Tourism Board made sure that Madrid’s finest restaurants were part of the Madrid Fusion equation. Here’s a glimpse of the city’s fine dining spots.
RAMSES
The word 'eccentric' barely describes the unique three-storied space. Opened under the blessing of Arzak Instructions, the consultancy arm of Arzak comprising Juan and Elena Arzak, Xabier Gutiérrez, Igor Zalakain and Mikel Sorazu, the interior resembles the machinations of a tinkerer’s mind. Designed with the help of acclaimed French interior designer Phillipe Starck, the multithemed spaces come together like an expressionist collage; from the graffiti-covered staircases, posh English and Mediterraneaninspired dining rooms, and bustling casual terrace. Round back, the restaurant’s private dining room awaits after a walk through a Japanese Zen garden.
Seasonal produce and seafood are the main focus here, with executive chef Sergi Sans staying faithful to Arzak classics such as the Grilled Sole, Duck Liver, and Queso Con Queso. Simple, strong flavours speak volumes here, especially in dishes such as Arroz Cortante: rice is cooked with razor clams and bone marrow butter, resulting in a luxurious silky texture. Hake was served ‘in its environment’, accompanied by a sauce of creamed sea anemones and algae, and seaweed tempura. Plaza de la Independencia, 4, 28001 Madrid. Tel: +34 9 1435 1666
COQUE
Eating at Coque is nothing short of a gastronomic experience. The two-michelin starred restaurant is run by the Sandoval Brothers (Mario, Diego and Rafael), with many of the recipes stemming from their own culinary experience and memories of their grandparents. Everything at Coque is intentional, and the predinner activities certainly do stimulate the palate in preparation for dinner. Diners are brought through the Bar, Cellar Room,
Champagne Room and Open Kitchen areas, each with their own amuse and alcohol pairings. A favourite from the tour? Laurentperrier La Cuvee with Canarian Black Potato Croquettes (with a unique mannitol sugar crust) and Macaron with Torta del Casar.
The main dining experience is equally ambitious. For starters, bread is served with a choice between four olive oils and four salts. Each course that follows comes with at least three different artful plates; while intimidating at first, it’s a marvel that the Sandoval Brothers can create such harmony in separation. For instance, the Pickled Red Mullet al Amontillado was served with a ‘peanut’ of romesco sauce, and a sea urchin pannacotta. Other times, a main ingredient is prepared in three different ways, such as their Lacquered Suckling Pig with confit pork chop and creamy trotter. The dinner ends with a playful reinterpretation of Spanish childhood snacks like Pink Panter and Tigreton, with a tea and perfume pairing.
Calle del Marqués del Riscal, 11, 28010 Madrid. Tel: +34 9 1604 0202
A’BARRA
The one-michelin-starred restaurant was opened in partnership with Joselito, a producer that is fiercely proud of its reputation as ‘arguably the best ham in the world’. And we are inclined to believe them. Dinner starts in the Joselito Room, a specially designed space for pre-dinner aperitifs and plates of glorious Jamon. I was treated to the Joselito Gran Reserva 2014, aged for six years with hams from Iberian pigs that have been allowed to graze for an additional season. The fat was profound, intricately woven throughout the flesh much like a piece of o-toro, and yielded a subtle, woodsy sweetness as each piece rendered onto the palate. The plate was polished off in seconds.
Dinner was equally impressive. Other parts of Joselito pigs were turned into stellar dishes; pig’s ears were turned into ‘noodles’ and served in a dashi consommé that used local eels in place of bonito flakes; paprika-studded brioche was stuffed with Joselito stew for a hearty bite; and the loin was smoked and served with Salmorejo sauce and corn. Seafood was also done well, including a Scorpion Fish that was prepared two ways. The fillet was served simply with fava puree, while the spines and head were deep-fried to a crisp for a texturally satisfying snack.
Calle del Pinar, 15, 28006 Madrid. Tel: +34 9 1021 0061