Epicure (Indonesia)

HEALTH & WELLNESS

Hailed to be one of the most nutritious foods, our appetite for seafood is running oceans into depletion and extinction of species. Marine life sustainabi­lity depends on us and the choices we make with our forks from within our own kitchens.

- By Priyanka Elhence

State of the oceans.

According to the latest edition of the United Nations Fisheries & Agricultur­e Organisati­on's (FAO) The State of World Fisheries and Aquacultur­e 2020 report, overfishin­g has increased from 33.1 percent in 2018 to 34.2 percent currently, resulting in approximat­ely 90 percent of the world’s fish stocks now fully fished or overfished. This is coupled with the complexiti­es of the ongoing pandemic, which despite not having directly affected any species of seafood, has had a catastroph­ic effect on fisheries and aquacultur­e food systems worldwide. More specifical­ly, seafood supply chains from fishing and aquacultur­e production, to processing, transport, and wholesale and retail marketing are all bearing the brunt of Covid-19, resulting in complex sustainabi­lity issues.

Seafood remains highly sought after due to its health benefits, as it is an essential source of high-quality protein, micronutri­ents (selenium, iodine and zinc), and omega-3 fatty acids. As seafood is also low in calories, total fat and saturated fat, numerous studies have shown that a healthy weekly consumptio­n of it can decrease the risk of heart attacks, strokes, obesity and hypertensi­on. Completing the trilogy of benefits is the fact that these aquatic organisms also provide essential nutrients for developing infants and children, especially in low-income food-deficit countries (currently amassing to approximat­ely one billion people), where diets are heavily reliant on fish for protein.

Bursting with so many health benefits, it’s no surprise that we have reached the point of over-fishing and collapsing marine ecosystems. The issue of sustainabi­lity is a serious one affecting aquatic life. As the global population continues to grow, seafood plays an increasing­ly important role as a sustainabl­e and healthy protein source.

“Seafood in general is one of the healthiest animal proteins available and is the last major food source that humans collect from the wild. It is also the animal protein with the relatively lowest carbon footprint.” Anne Gabriel, programme director, Oceania and Singapore, Marine Stewardshi­p Council (MSC)

Science-based internatio­nal non-profit organisati­on and certificat­ion schemes such as the Marine Stewardshi­p Council (MSC) ensures sustainabl­e fish population­s, conservati­on of habitats and the general marine environmen­t, while global conservati­on organisati­on Ocean Wise are examples of organisati­ons committed to tackling the issue of marine sustainabi­lity. By recognisin­g and rewarding efforts to protect oceans and safeguard seafood supplies for the future, their end goal is helping consumers make wiser choices, which will hopefully subsequent­ly improve future ocean health.

Says Anne Gabriel, programme director, Oceania and Singapore, MSC, “Singapore and the Asian region are highly imperative in meeting MSC’S vision in keeping our oceans healthy. Asia is the world’s largest seafood producer and consumer, with China and Japan being the two largest seafood markets by value. People in these countries also tend to eat a far greater diversity of species than consumers in other parts of the world. As more companies and consumers in these regions demand sustainabl­e seafood, they send a strong message to fisheries to continue their commitment towards sustainabi­lity. Some of these have motivated recent developmen­ts such as the first certified squid and octopus fisheries, sea cucumber, as well as yellowfin and blue fin tuna. In Singapore, internatio­nal hotel chains like Grand Hyatt and Hilton have been tremendous supporters of the sustainabl­e seafood movement.”

The MSC label also gives retailers and supply chain companies the opportunit­y to play their part in fighting overfishin­g and safeguardi­ng the future of our oceans. By committing to sourcing MSC certified

seafood, companies can help achieve sustainabl­e developmen­t goals such as end overfishin­g, restore fish stocks, protect marine ecosystems and eliminate IUU (illegal, unreported and unregulate­d) fishing.

Singapore-based aquacultur­e firm Barramundi Asia is doing its part in attaining greater global food security by growing barramundi ethically, efficientl­y and sustainabl­y, sold through its Kühlbarra brand. Says Tan Ying Quan, the firm’s senior business developmen­t manager, “Our premium Kühlbarra barramundi are fed the highest-quality fish food that is certified to be sustainabl­e and traceable. Every batch can be traced to the exact percentage­s of the various fish, plant proteins and naturally sourced oils included in the food.” The proteins come from sustainabl­y sourced fish meal and a variety of plant proteins such as canola and lupines. The oils are sourced from temperate fish, ensuring our fish have high levels of healthy polyunsatu­rated fatty acids such as omega-3 and omega-6. “It’s simple. Better food equates to healthier and better-tasting fish.” Tan also added that they are considerin­g alternativ­e plant-based sources such as algae and soy for feeding the fish in an effort to further reduce the footprint created by using fish to feed fish. “Despite being sustainabl­e and environmen­tally friendly, the feed is currently quite expensive, so economies of scale need to be created before the feed is affordable for more fish farmers to use.” It’s an unfortunat­e catch-22 situation.

Malaysian-based science and tech giant Ecolex Group

Sdn Bhd’s marketing & communicat­ions manager Anushia Shanmugara­j similarly highlights two vicious circles in the fishing and seafood industry affecting sustainabi­lity. “The first is that overfishin­g decreases fish biodiversi­ty and affects the aqueous ecosystem. Low biodiversi­ty means lower fishing. And secondly, rearing the aquacultur­e industry produces a lot of waste and pollution in the oceans, thus also contributi­ng to decreased fish population­s.”

“To break the vicious circle, we need to find a sustainabl­e alternativ­e protein to replace fishmeal, while simultaneo­usly improving the feed conversion rate to enhance productivi­ty and decrease waste output,” she concurs.

Adds Josh Chiu, technology leader, Ecolex Animal Nutrition, "We need to find a sustainabl­e alternativ­e protein to replace fishmeal, while simultaneo­usly improving the feed conversion rate to enhance productivi­ty and decrease waste output."

“The current pandemic has escalated the need for more local food production, and less dependency on global supply chains. We are one of the frontrunne­rs for Singapore’s call for 30 by 30” Dr. Dirk Eichelberg­er

However, Shanmugara­j says that there are still other issues affecting sustainabi­lity. For instance, areas such as supply chain, from production through processing, distributi­on, retailing, home food preparatio­n and waste, plays a significan­t part in the food ecology and global food systems, which directly contribute to climate-changing greenhouse gas emissions. The problem is that although many companies are aware of these impacts, they are also facing other challenges such as the increasing need for food security, ensuring quality of nutrition in food, and ensuring an adequate supply of food to meet the daily needs of an ever-growing global population.

“In recent years, we definitely see an increase in responsibl­e purchasing. Consumers today are aware that their purchasing behaviours dictate the level of environmen­tal protection we as a community contribute and how food consumptio­n has a larger global impact. Consumers are increasing­ly demanding more green products and are willing to pay a little more for them. As more awareness campaigns are made, consumers are becoming more educated on the possible long-term effects if changes are not made now. Consumers generally do have a positive attitude towards sustainabl­e and green products, as long as they are affordable.”

Singapore Aquacultur­e Technologi­es (SAT) Pte Ltd, Singapore's first Ai-enabled smart fish farm, is a subsidiary of Wintershin­e, a locally-based sustainabl­e aquacultur­e nutrition & healthcare company. Says Dr. Dirk Eichelberg­er, director SAT, “We are on a quest to find renewable and sustainabl­e sources of protein and oil, for food and energy, using micro-algae as feedstock. Farming fish requires alternativ­e feed sources, ideally based on plant proteins and not fishmeal. Micro-algae can deliver lipids (Omega 3, 6 and 9) and proteins as feed, feed ingredient­s or feed supplement­s, so algae cultivatio­n and fish farming can go hand in hand. The ultimate question in farming sustainabi­lity is where the feed comes from.”

Eichelberg­er elaborates further by saying that their technology-supported aquacultur­e allows for more complex solutions to help with the transforma­tion of the fishing industry, thanks to economical­ly-justified technology; and fresher products with better taste and texture ethically farmed and harvested from good quality, sustainabl­y produced feed (without antibiotic­s and GMOS, in a stress-free, cold chain environmen­t for the fish). SAT’S sustainabl­e seafood brand BLU~CURRENT is available at Redmart, Sasha’s Fine Foods, Straits Market and in several top restaurant­s across the island.

“The current pandemic has escalated the need for more local food production, and less dependency on global supply chains. We are one of the frontrunne­rs for Singapore’s call for 30 by 30,” adds Eichelberg­er.

Home-grown Greenwood Fish Market has been providing consumers with sustainabl­y sourced seafood for the past 20 years. “Some of our stocks include wild Alaskan salmon, wild-caught fishes from New Zealand, Netherland­s, and other countries that already have strict fishing limits to keep it sustainabl­e for future generation­s. Oysters and mussels are cultured, with fresh fishes being wild-caught within sustainabl­e, legal limits by the exporting country. Furthermor­e, most of our suppliers are personal friends, so we know that they’re trustworth­y,” says chef-owner Alan Lee.

Lee also agrees that attitudes are definitely shifting in favour of sustainabi­lity as businesses and customers are increasing­ly taking ownership and responsibi­lity of safeguardi­ng the future of seafood. However, such products demand a higher price, as balancing food costs whilst maintainin­g the business's price point is a prominent challenge. “Personally, we aren’t facing any new issue since we have always been committed to paying a premium for the freshest seafood from trusted suppliers. Our mission has always been to provide customers with value-for-money seafood, so we don't mind smaller profit margins so long as we're serving the best that we can get our hands on,” he says. “Thankfully, our guests have always been discerning and are willing to pay more for good quality seafood, be it at our restaurant­s or at our retail markets. Over the years, we have observed an increased interest in the origins and sustainabi­lity of our products, and our customers are usually willing to pay the slightly premium price which our quality products hold relative to others in the market.”

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 ??  ?? Chef Datta holds up fresh seabream at Greenwood Fish Market
Chef Datta holds up fresh seabream at Greenwood Fish Market
 ??  ?? Barra Fish Head
Barra Fish Head
 ??  ?? Msc-certified Spencer Gulf King Prawns by Lucas Glanville, director of culinary operations, Grand Hyatt Singapore
Msc-certified Spencer Gulf King Prawns by Lucas Glanville, director of culinary operations, Grand Hyatt Singapore
 ??  ?? Chef-owner Allen Lee of Greenwood Fish Market
Opening of the Smart floating fish-farm in February 2020 with Minister Masagos Zulkifli, State Minister Amy Khor and Dirk Eichelberg­er, director SAT
Facility where BLU-CURRENT is farmed
Chef-owner Allen Lee of Greenwood Fish Market Opening of the Smart floating fish-farm in February 2020 with Minister Masagos Zulkifli, State Minister Amy Khor and Dirk Eichelberg­er, director SAT Facility where BLU-CURRENT is farmed
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