A MODERN TWIST ON SEAFOOD SHACKS
Cooking great seafood isn’t just about technique. Eventide is proof that it really does start from having quality ingredients, treating them right and enjoying them with the best complementing accoutrements possible.
AT A GLANCE
I’m always eager to try out new, unpretentious cookbooks that promise a delicious, hearty dish that is easy enough for a skilled home cook to replicate, especially without the need for fancy, onetime-use-only gadgets that never see the light of day again.
And Eventide is exactly that. With recipes from its hugely popular, moniker oyster shack and seafood restaurant in Portland, there’s nothing pompous about this tome. With the restaurant brought together by just regular guys who were inspired by their childhood memories of happy family summers traversing New England’s coasts, you know you’re in for some quality reading, nuggets of knowledge, and of course, gorgeous grub. Eventide really is about letting fresh, high-quality seafood sing for itself and shine in the spotlight without the need for any frills - just like the authentic Maine seafood experience we all know.
ROAD TEST
This cookbook isn’t just a recipe book; rather, it’s an insightful journey about how four regular guys built a solid business on their passion for fresh and simple seafood. Apart from personal anecdotes and recipes, the authors have also provided detailed technical steps to oyster, clam, lobster and fish breakdowns and a glossary for what equipment you’ll need for some of the pages herein. Condiment recipes include how to make flavoured ices, mignonettes, basic sauces and classic sides.
For the main event, the authors aptly sum up their style of cooking as ‘formulaic – a superlative local protein, a fat, an acidic component, a crunchy component, and maybe some heat’. That’s really it. Despite the book having been inspired by seafood from Maine, I like the fact that most of the accompanying sauces have an Asian flavour to them, which means that finding ingredients is easy.
Having said that though, be warned that some recipes can have several small moving parts, so may require a little bit more time. For instance, the moreish Scallop Waffle-yaki involves making tempura crispies (which are incredibly stress-free and delicious by the way), scallop waffle batter, kabayaki sauce (eel sauce), umami mayonnaise and pickled kombu. Sounds cumbersome, but it’s a very smooth cook and really worth the effort for a lazy weekend brunch dish.
I like simple dishes where a quality ingredient is the main star of the show, so I couldn’t pass on the opportunity to test out the simple Tuna Crudo. Complemented by a ginger scallion recipe by Momofuku Group’s David Chang, tare and crunchy radishes, a homemade sashimi appetiser couldn’t be any easier or elegant.
With most of the images being quite stunning, it’s hard to decide on what not to cook. But I finally settled on the Grilled Squid Salad because of its sophisticated plating and pop of colours. The squid component is straightforward as usual, and works just as well with frozen squid if you can’t get your hands on fresh produce. But it was the confit potatoes that took a few tries for me to get just right, despite their super-simple technique. And I’ve always admired how effortlessly an olive crumble adds a salty punch to a dish but never realised that making one could be so simple.
Try your hand at the Eventide Steamed Bun, which are for several other recipes in the book, including a classic Brown Butter Lobster Roll, a Fried Oyster Bun and a Crab Roll with Yuzu Kosho mayonnaise. I like the katsu-style Fish Sandwich, and the Eventide Burger is another must-try. It’s originally made from aged mince beef, and is the only non-fish or seafood recipe in the cookbook.
End with simple, classic American desserts such as a Whoopie Pie or a Honey-roasted Peanut Butter Cookie. And despite beer being the classic pairing for seafood, there’s a small chapter dedicated to creative cocktails that complement the seafood indulgence. Wash down a platter of oysters with The Celery Gimlet or try the potent spiced Walking Dead, a twist on the tiki classic Zombie.
VERDICT
Whether you want to boost your seafood repertoire with some fancy ices and sauces, improve your fish slicing skills or just increase your knowledge about seafood and cooking techniques, Eventide is a relaxing read that delivers that through hearty, homespun food.