Epicure (Indonesia)

BEYOND SUSTAINABL­E

Analogue is entirely vegan and sustainabl­e but forwardthi­nking founder Vijay Mudaliar doesn’t want it to be just that. He describes it as a progressiv­e concept.

- Analogue is at 30 Victoria Street #01-31, Chijmes, Singapore 187996. Tel: 8518 1882.

Founder and eco-conscious Vijay Mudialiar’s second bar, Analogue, is entirely plant-based and ticks so many of the right boxes, Mudaliar prefers to think of it as “progressiv­e”.

The first box – sustainabi­lity. Moved by the scourge of plastic waste in oceans, Mudaliar sought out a bar top made entirely of recycled plastic. The azure blue gradient bar counter is shaped like a vivid tempestuou­s wave, 3D-printed with 1600kg of recycled plastic. “Everybody has an issue with single-use plastic, but once they see the bar top, people don’t think of plastics the same way. There’s a sense of creativity and a solution to the plastic problem,” he says reflective­ly. The sustainabl­e material theme continues outside with mycelium tops (a natural material made from mushrooms) for the outdoor tables.

Next box – inclusivit­y. At one end, the waves dip down to create a depressed bar counter for guests in wheelchair­s. As it happens, the dining venue Chijmes, where the bar is located, is equally inclusive with ramps in addition to stairs.

The progressiv­e and futurist approach plays out in the 16-cocktail drinks menu. Mudaliar eschews foods plaguing the ecosystem and consciousl­y selects analogues and replacemen­ts for them. Carob and chicory are used instead of chocolate and coffee, and tonka beans become a substitute for vanilla. In Soursop, vegan honey sweetens the drink along with lemongrass and an all-natural spirit by Empirical.

Cactus is a mezcal-based drink spiced with prickly pear and dragonfrui­t. Here, Mudaliar imagines the future of farming on our overheated planet where resilient plants might survive in the future and opts for succulent and cactus-based ingredient­s: mezcal, agave and aloe vera.

Noticeably, half of the drinks on the menu are presented without alcohol and sugar. Given that both are natural carriers of flavours, the 33-year-old takes a different route to amplify savour.

“We look at non-alcoholics like perfume,” he says, and explores flavours that go better together using water-based hydrosol, essential oils and different forms of sweeteners like xylitol which has a lower glycemic index. “It’s just a lot better for you,” he adds.

In food as in drinks, chef Dylan Choong finds analogues for over-farmed produce. Meat and dairy give way to vegan plates, but don’t expect clean Buddha bowls listed on the menu.

Instead, dive into the analogous plant-based meat Nuggetz, which closely mimics fast-food chicken nuggets and is served with a sweet and piquant curry sauce. The pulled-jackfruit rendang tacos are a crowd-favourite. Then there’s the fun Canadian staple: poutine served with plant-based cheese and an umami-rich mushroom miso sauce.

Mudaliar is hardly prescripti­ve of his beliefs. He’s not trying to convert you or the bar industry (to that effect, the menu does not mention vegan), but if Analogue piques someone’s interest, he’s open to a hearty conversati­on.

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