Exquisite Taste

Home is where The Heart Is

Discover creative contempora­ry cuisine at Nouri, where acclaimed Brazilian chef Ivan Brehm adds a pinch of soul and squeeze of South American heart to the city’s flourishin­g fine-dining scene.

- By Christian Galbraith

When the latest and eagerly anticipate­d Michelin Guide Singapore was announced it was no surprise that the distinguis­hed listing included Nouri, a relatively new restaurant secreted quietly away on Amoy Street in Singapore's colourful Chinatown.

Nouri takes its name from the verb to nourish and with his brand of outstandin­g

contempora­ry European-style cuisine, the much-admired owner-chef Ivan Brehm certainly goes the extra mile to ensure diners leave his restaurant well-satisfied and extremely happy.

With seating for just 42 people, the design is more understate­d than one might expect of a Brehm restaurant, but remains stylish and comfortabl­e. Its excellent cuisine is backed up by excellent service. Alongside the extensivel­y stocked bar and main dining space, Nouri also boasts a sophistica­ted private room for those who want extra intimacy.

The dining concept is built upon Brehm's far-reaching work experience, which has included stints at New York's Per Se, Mugaritz in Spain, Hibiscus in London and four years at The Fat Duck, where he became developmen­t chef at Heston Blumenthal's iconic Experiment­al Kitchen, before moving

to Singapore leading Bacchanali­a to its first Michelin star in 2016.

As Brehm notes, “Nouri is special, and a restaurant to call my own.” With a nod to his global influences, he dubs his food “crossroads cooking”, a distinctiv­e and eclectic style that draws inspiratio­n from produce and cuisines from all around the world.

The menu is compact but full of exceptiona­l dishes, such as the beautifull­y plated and delicious black pepper fish. A locally farmed grouper fillet is served atop a glossy black pepper and vanilla sauce with a charred pickled carrot accompanim­ent, and, inspired by the chef's Brazilian heritage, a wonderful acarajé and vatapá Afro-Brazilian fritter.

Among our favourites is the spicy Indianinfl­uenced chicken debal, or devil's chicken, a succulent butter poached chicken breast in an aromatic debal curry served with achar pickles and rice crackers. The dessert menu is just as impressive with the whimsical Chinese liquorice and violet flower parfait with lemon salt, fennel flowers and love letters high on the list of must-try dishes.

Dinning at Nouri is all about the experience and, ably supported by the award-winning sommelier, sake sommelier and bartender Mathew Chan, Brehm's crossroads concept extends seamlessly into an exciting and extensive beverage list.

Receiving critical acclaim, the crossroads cocktail list launched last year is a regional celebratio­n with each concoction reflecting a specific time, country or culture. The Ode to Celebratio­n, for example, is inspired by China's mid-Autumn festival, whilst A Vow of Eternity mirrors a traditiona­l Korean wedding where the bride and groom drink rice wine from a sliced gourd to symbolise the union. Nouri also boasts an excellent range of sake and organic, biodynamic wines.

Closed Sundays, Nouri brings a pinch of soul and squeeze of South American heart to the city's flourishin­g fine-dining scene. Nouri (nouri.com)

 ??  ?? BLACK PEPPER FISH – LOCALLY FARMED GROUPER, BLACK PEPPER AND VANILLA SAUCE,CHARRED PICKLED CARROT (PHOTOCREDI­T: ROBIN THANG)
BLACK PEPPER FISH – LOCALLY FARMED GROUPER, BLACK PEPPER AND VANILLA SAUCE,CHARRED PICKLED CARROT (PHOTOCREDI­T: ROBIN THANG)
 ??  ?? WILD RICE STEM - STEAM ROASTED MAKOMOTAKE, SPICED BUTTERMILK GRATIN, CULTURED CABBAGE (PHOTOCREDI­T: ROBIN THANG)
WILD RICE STEM - STEAM ROASTED MAKOMOTAKE, SPICED BUTTERMILK GRATIN, CULTURED CABBAGE (PHOTOCREDI­T: ROBIN THANG)
 ??  ??
 ??  ?? IVAN BREHM (PHOTOCREDI­T: ROBIN THANG)
IVAN BREHM (PHOTOCREDI­T: ROBIN THANG)

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Indonesia