UP CLOSE & PERSONAL
Experiencing the joy of Lorenzo Sollecito’s cakes and chocolates, you would think this had been his life-long path, but his initial time working in pastry was supposed to be a mere six months on his path to become an executive chef. While doing the photo
We just love talking to chefs and discovering what drives them. In this edition, we talk to Lorenzo Sollecito from Four Seasons Hotel Jakarta, Janice Wong from 2am:dessertbar in Singapore, Eric Cocollos from The Apurva Kempinski Bali and Albert Adrià from Cakes & Bubbles in London.
: What made you decide to become a pastry chef?
Lorenzo:
I had never thought of specialising in pastry and was working my way up the ladder in hot kitchens to become an executive chef. I had been working in Milan for several years and was with Bvlgari Hotels when I decided that I needed some pastry skills. At that time, my cooking and organisation skills were good, but I lacked creativity.
Four Seasons Hotel Firenze was at the pre-opening stage and was looking to fill a very junior position at its Michelin-starred Il Palagio. Although this was several steps below my current position, I decided to take it for six months for the experience. Little did I realise that this was going to be my actual future. With Executive Pastry Chef Domenico di Clemente as my mentor, I found my happy place, my creativity and never left pastry.
: How is being a pastry chef different for you?
L:
In the kitchen, they are more instinctive, working on the spot. In pastry, I have to think six months ahead and plan concepts so that we can stay ahead of the game and anticipate special occasions. For example, in August, we are already finalising Christmas concepts, and this carries on through the year with Chinese New Year, Lebaran, Valentine’s Day and so on. We are always challenging ourselves to do better than last year, to be more impressive and more memorable.
Especially these days, cakes and desserts always need to be eye-catching and to have a story behind them; this is what brings people in. I find inspiration from art, nature, history, culture, but it’s also easy to see what is happening in Paris, New York, Mumbai. But on top of this, you have to get the taste right so that people will come back.
: What is the most important principle when it comes to baking? L:
I truly believe that you must love what you are doing and be proud of what you are creating, otherwise how can you expect other people to like it? When you love what you are doing, it is easy to pay extra attention to the details and to put in the hard work, so you can serve something that looks beautiful and tastes fantastic with a great combination of flavours. That is the essence of this job.
: If you could have only one dessert or cake for the rest of your life, what it would be?
L:
My answer is classic Italian – my mama’s dessert! I know it’s not very original, but it’s true. There are a lot of apples in my village and my mother always made apple strudel for the family, but she’d make it after dinner, so it would be ready about 11pm for the next day’s lunch. When my brothers and I went out drinking, we’d be hungry when we got home and the strudel was so tempting that we would eat a piece, then one more, until it was gone. After a while, she started making two, so that there would still be one for lunch. It is as much about those memories as it is the apple strudel itself.
Four Seasons Hotel Jakarta