PATEK PHILIPPE
With three new models, the Genevan manufacture reasserts its standing as the undisputed master of grand complications
IF YOU EVER get the chance to visit the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva – or perhaps see select pieces from the museum when those were on display at one of the brand’s Grand Exhibitions – it would be hard to miss the profusion of grand complications. Just take a look at the Calibre 89, a pocket watch housing a grand total of 33 complications. More recently, in 2014, Patek Philippe launched the Grandmaster Chime, a wristwatch with 20 complications.
What is arguably even more impressive, however, is that Patek Philippe, besides being a master of creating grand complications and the miniaturization of these mechanical marvels, also has one of the most comprehensive collections of regularly produced grand complications. Creating minute repeaters with perpetual calendars, astronomical watches, timepieces with tourbillons and models that combine several of these highly coveted functions is not just something that the brand can do, it is something that is ingrained in the way Patek Philippe creates watches.
This year, the manufacture reasserts its philosophy accommodating the utmost in technical complexity within the smallest possible space – all while maintaining simplicity of operation, convenience, functional integrity and also legibility – with three amazing new timepieces.
REF. 5303R-001 MINUTE REPEATER
Having made its debut at the Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019, the Ref. 5303R-001 – slightly reworked – has become part of Patek Philippe’s current collection. This is the first Patek Philippe Grand Complication with a minute repeater whose hammers and gongs are clearly visible on the dial side, making it as much a treat for the eyes as it is for the ears. Speaking of which, the tourbillon at 6 o’clock, visible through the small seconds counter, adds yet another focal point to the timepiece. Of course, there are plenty of other fine details for the connoisseur to appreciate, from the gold minute repeater slide engraved with a leaf-shaped pattern to the aestheticallypleasing R TO 27 PS manual winding movement visible through the sapphire crystal case back.
REF. 5370P-011 SPLITSECONDS CHRONOGRAPH
A chronograph might sound less impressive than minute repeaters and tourbillons, but, as any watch afficionado or collector could tell you, a split-seconds chronograph is a whole different matter – especially one by Patek Philippe. In fact, the Ref. 5370P-011 houses six patented chronograph innovations and one patent for its rattrapante mechanism. And while the watch looks sufficiently technical with excellent legibility as befits a chronograph watch, it should be noted that the gold applied Breguet numerals, tachymeter scale and white gold leaf-shaped hands are set in contrast against a magnificent Grand Feu blue enamel dial that presents an incomparably intense blue.
REF. 5270J-001 PERPETUAL CALENDAR CHRONOGRAPH
Continuing the legacy of the Ref. 1518 from 1941, the Ref. 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph was first introduced in 2011, with updated versions launched in 2015 and 2018. This year, the model has been reinterpreted with a yellow gold case and a silvery opaline dial. The latter, in particular, becomes the perfect canvas on which the tachymeter scale, subsidiary dials and various apertures – including the day of week and month at 12 o’clock as well as the moon phase, leap-year cycle and day/night indication on the lower half of the dial – play out their timely dance. On the flip side, the sapphire crystal case back gives us a clear view of the caliber CH 29-535 PS Q, which marries traditional architecture with cutting edge innovation.