AND THE STORY GOES ON
Anindya Devy catches up with fashion designer TOTON JANUAR for a talk about the journey of TOTON as a brand and implementing sustainability for the future
Ifyou look closely, there is a sense of story and a somewhat poetic element in each of Toton Januar’s works. From the way it flows, the way it moves and holds one’s body so beautifully, you can see the thought process that goes into it, and you can help but admire the beautiful pieces. Toton celebrates Indonesia’s beauty and diverse culture through his eyes and comes up with new narratives and stories that is an extension of his personal statements and memories. Two years has passed since we last spoke to the Makassar-born designer, many things have happened in the world but Toton consistently launched its new collection for every season.
Hi Toton, great to have you with us. How are you these days?
I’m good, thank you. Most of the time I’m in survival mode, but aren’t we all? So, I am grateful for everything, despite the current situation.
What has changed since we last spoke to you in 2019?
A lot of things have changed. I think, as we are all aware, the COVID-19 pandemic has turned our lives upside down for almost two years now. We are at the turning point where the question is not whether we want to change or not, but how much we are willing to change because change is not only inevitable but also necessary.
We are no longer doing seasonal showrooms in Paris, for obvious reasons, but we are rethinking the whole idea of seasonal fashion. We’re also producing more mindfully, only doing what is necessary and focusing more on a personal approach to our audience and consumers.
How do you keep yourself motivated in uncertain times like now?
It is a continuous task for us to keep our spirits up and thriving. I have to admit, sometimes it is easier to just surrender and feel helpless. But what I always keep in mind is that I have responsibilities not only to myself but also to people that I work with: my team, artisans, and everyone involved in our operations. Although we see things from different perspectives, we are going through the same things. I think that I can find strength in knowing and letting them know that we are going to be there for each other ... and I am thankful for that.
Speaking of TOTON, is there a continuation or narrative between collections?
I believe the collections we put out are the notes on our journey as a brand. They’re not only collections of styles and garments, but also personal statements on current situations where most of the inspiration for each collection started from.
How do you manage to incorporate Indonesian touches into every design and collection?
We don’t think too much about it these days. When you feel you are something or you love something in every sense, you would think, act, create, and want to learn more about the thing you love. It constantly fascinates you. That’s how I feel about Indonesia. And I think that is how it is incorporated into the collections. I especially love to learn about history, the way people were in a bygone era, and what becomes the roots, the foundation of what we know as Indonesian culture.
What goes into your mind before starting a new collection?
To be aware of the situation of the world I live in. Most of the time, the inspiration starts from an emotion or thought or a reaction to what is going on in the world. Or something more personal but in a way that can connect us as human beings.
What is your strongest suit?
I would like to think that I am a caring person. Sometimes, I don’t want to admit it because I think it is a quality that everyone should possess, but unfortunately that is not the case in reality.
And what is TOTON’s strongest suit?
Authenticity. I believe that we have an honest voice, that we come from a place of inspiration and we like to offer what we have to the world without being what we’re not.
“A lot of times being relevant is misinterpreted as being ‘in the now’ or ‘on trend,’ which is not what I’m aiming for the brand”
How do you find the balance between the classics and modern reinterpretations in every design?
I think we constantly challenge and ask ourselves the question of what it means to be modern. For me, it always comes down to practicality and sustainability. But I also appreciate tradition, symbols, and language we use in culture by the tools of decorative arts. I think we try to combine those aspects in every design, to make it practical but also meaningful.
How do you imagine the typical TOTON woman who you design for?
I would like to think that she’s an independent thinker, an open-minded person. Someone who appreciates differences and has great respect for culture yet is brave to think forward and embrace change.
Tell us about your latest collection, TOTON Fall/ Winter 2021. We learned that it was produced entirely from materials that are available in the studio...
Yes, that is true. For most people in fashion, using materials already used in previous collections is often considered taboo, especially in an industry that supposedly offers newness every 10 seconds. But the pandemic and current global situation have forced us to rethink a lot of things and find different contexts and perspectives. Can we still offer something fresh and exciting with leftover materials? I’d like to believe we can. This is where creativity is pushed. I think we create better when we are faced with limitations.
And what is the theme for the Fall/Winter 2021 collection?
The initial idea came from this emotion of missing home. I am a transplant in Jakarta and since the pandemic hit, I haven’t had the chance to visit my hometown, Makassar. The thought of home, a safe place to be with people you love, made me want to explore the meaning of “home” when we’re away from home. So, the decorative aspect incorporated in this collection
comes mostly from domestic things I found in the home where I grew up: blue and white ceramics, lattice fences, lace window curtains, etc. Those things always remind me of the warmth of my home, the feeling of being safe and protected.
We learned that all of TOTON denim pieces are entirely made from pre-consumer denim waste from factories around Jakarta. How did this initiative start?
It was during the Dewi Fashion Knights 2017 event where the theme was modernism. I immediately thought of what was modern at that time and the answer was to be aware of the world’s situation, especially with global warming and the damage we cause to the environment. I did some research and found that not only is fashion one of the biggest contributors of waste, but also that we have the biggest landfill in the world, located in Bantar Gebang, Bekasi. So, the collection made out entirely of recycled materials – especially denim from our wardrobe – was born out of that thought. We have been doing denim since our second collection in 2014, but the practice of incorporating denim waste – pre- and postconsumer waste – started after that DFK collection in 2017.
Sustainability is not something new for you and the label. Besides the denim pieces, can you tell us the ways you have incorporated sustainability into your brand over the years?
To be honest, the brand and I are still learning when it comes to sustainable practices ... but it turned out we have been practicing it since day one of our label. Working with local artisans and sourcing and producing locally is part of cultural and environmental sustainability. In my honest opinion, that’s the thing about the term “sustainability.” It’s something that I personally am so intimidated about, yet our ancestors have practiced it for the longest time. For instance, we all have a grandma or grandpa who doesn’t throw things away and find a second, even third life in any of their belongings. I think we just have to be mindful and carefully edit our way of doing things. Sometimes we don’t even realize that we’ve been nurturing the practice of sustainability in our lives. Small things like recycling, upcycling, or reducing our consumption thereby producing less waste.
TOTON has been chosen as one of nine brands from all over the world to participate in Fashion Open House x COP 26. Can you tell us more about this exciting event?
We were nominated for the event by British Council Indonesia, and Fashion Revolution as the organizer choose nine brands from all over the world to share our stories on our efforts at being sustainable. I think they try to show different approaches from each brand, and also different challenges we face in employing more sustainable practices. It is very exciting because we’re not only given a platform to share our brand’s story but also, we’re fuelled with knowledge. Fashion Revolution holds online classes for the chosen brands on sustainability practices with expert speakers. We’re also given grants to produce events where we share our brand’s story.
For this event, Fashion Open Studio is working together with COP 26, The UN Climate Change Conference in Glasgow.
Will you showcase a new collection for this special occasion?
We are not going to do a showcase in the traditional sense for this event. But, in line with the title of the main event which is Fashion Open Studio (FOS), we are going to open up our studio and the process of making a new collection in the form of short film. The audience will have an idea of how a piece of garment is produced, the efforts behind it, and how we can implement sustainable practices throughout the process. TOTON has never claimed to be a sustainable brand, because we think it is a great responsibility to carry that big of a title. What we do is purely out of our awareness and needs to contribute to a better environment. We plan to preview the short film on November 5, during the FOS x COP 26 offline events in Glasgow.
As seasons and trends come and go, how important is being relevant for the label?
I think being connected is more important than being relevant. A lot of times being relevant is misinterpreted as being “in the now” or “on trend,” which is not what I’m aiming for the brand. I would like TOTON to be more mindful and aware of what is going on in the world and react with creativity, and hopefully can inspire and provide solutions.
How do you see the label grow in the following years?
Honestly, considering the current situation and where the world is heading, it remains to be seen. I want to be hopeful and make all kinds of wonderful plans, but it is important to stay grounded and be aware of reality. So, we approach the future by being more mindful, to let our brand organically grow to the shape and direction it is intended to be.