Renaissance Man

An eclectic design in its new collection and why Gucci’s reinvention by Alessandro Michele is grabbing everyone’s attention right now. Dewi Irma writes

t’s august, and summer is almost over. This means that the seasonal heat is making ways for cooler fall breezes and that a new wardrobe welcoming the fall/winter season is here. But autumnal weather doesn’t mean you can’t have fun with your outfit, and looks for the fall and winter season are certainly not limited to greys and blacks—as Gucci’s newest collections proves.

Gearing up for colder months ahead, the Italian luxury fashion house recently presented its pre-fall and fall/winter 2016 collections, which are remixes of several elements all rolled together in a vibrant and wide range of colours. Indonesia Tatler had the privilege to attend the press preview event of the new collection in Taipei.

After the tenure of Tom Ford (1994-2004) and Frida Giannini (2006-2014), Gucci has a new Creative Director, Alessandro Michele (pronounced “Mi-ke-le”, not “Mishelle”). And since he took the helm, Gucci is a brand that’s been more energetic than we’ve seen in years.

Guided by Michele’s vision, Gucci’s designs are now more playful while still maintaining a sophisticated structure and composition. The fall/winter 2016 collection, for instance, was themed “Rhizomatic Scores” (a rhizome is a type of root system that feeds on different elements), in reference to the philosophical theories of Deleuze and Guattari.

He translated the theme into the collection,

which also focuses on a mixture of different influences from de Medici, 1970s sports, Renaissance bikers and 1980s Italian and French couture right through to Asian influences. Mixed together with street style and verve, the Gucci fall/winter 2016 collection takes fashion lovers on a voyage through time and space.

Michele believes that we don’t need to choose just one thing—we can choose multiple meanings, references and eras at the same time. And he sure loves to mix and match: the world of fashion is a playground for his creativity.

So this season, Michele took on Catherine de Medici, one of the most powerful women in Europe in the 16th Century, as his muse, letting her travel through time. It’s little

wonder, then, that we saw Renaissance elements in the collection. Michele himself has variously described the new collection as rock ’n’ roll renaissance, 1980s renaissance, street-style renaissance, bourgeois renaissance and chinoiserie renaissance. In short, a beauty of chaos.

Let’s nail down the concrete stuff: this collection comprises a lot of eclectic designs, with embellished looks, sequined skirts, tailored trouser suits, Chinese-style collar dresses, sweaters covered in quirky graphics, shiny brocade coats, flowery-embroidered jeans, sequined sheer dresses, capes and brightly coloured tights. The outerwear ranges from street-style bomber jackets and leathered pieces to luxurious furry coats in pink, orange or yellow. These are perfect ensembles to bring colour into the fall and winter months. And for a hint of street, it’s fascinating that Gucci chose the band AC/ DC , displaying its logo on the back of a typical couture dress.

The pre-fall 2016 collection also does the same thing, presenting a cheerful vibe. From flower-ruffle blazers, pleated gowns, printed pant suits, knitted sweaters, pussy-bow blouses, printed scarves, rainbow tulle skirts, leather dresses, to one-shoulder gowns, this is a collection that’s fun, youthful and energetic.

Another notable thing is Michele’s love for the animal world. He created several looks that are snake-centric, from a classic silk pleated dress with the unique embroidery of a few snakes, or a black lace gown with a sequined snake sliding across the chest. There’s also knit and embroidery techniques

here and there in the form of parrots, tigers and black panthers.

One thing to remember: before he took the helm as Creative Director, Michele was Gucci’s Head Accessories Designer. So he did what he does best and gave the collection a bang with the perfect accessories. Jewellery from this collection included knuckle rings embellished with spiked pearls, embroidery pearl and crystal faux necklaces, multi-finger ring pearl bracelets, and kitten and pearl earrings.

For this season, Michele also showcased large, geeky, heavy-framed glasses in some looks. Almost all of the sunglasses were covered in sparkling gems, from square cats’-eye glasses with gold star studs, glittering glasses, to black eyewear studded with clear stones.

The Gucci fall/winter 2016 collection also presented a range of special items, such as headpieces with veils from the 1950s. Fedora hats, turbans, and exaggerated bowler hats also topped off several of the looks. All of these were paired with the unique shoes, such as sparkling and glittering disco sandals, shoes with snakes crawling on the heels, and a new version of the iconic horsebit loafers.

There’s also a love of graffiti. Gucci collaborated with Trevor “Trouble” Andrew, a New York-based street artist also known for his branded alter ego Guccighost, who presented drawings on some of the garments. Michele also used the Gucci logo as redesigned by Guccighost in the collection, on a quilted leather bag with chain shoulder strap, a leather shopper customised, biker jackets, as well as on a pleated silk skirt and a plush coat. This is fashion becoming art, quite literally.

When Michele moved into the spotlight back in January 2015, stepping up to replace a just-departed Frida Giannini, in the months that followed right up to now, he has continued to surprise everyone. His unusual style fascinates both the press and the market.

His total reinvention of the fashion house has also made him one of the most-talkedabout designers this season, and the world has witnessed a transition in Gucci. While the brand’s previous designs were all about slick tailoring and a mature vision, Michele breathed much younger and more whimsical vibes into the brand. But while this makeover has definitely freshened up the label, Michele has managed to make it classic Gucci, remaining true to the heritage of the brand.

With Michele’s creations, wearers can now be both high class and rock ‘n’ roll at the same time. Extremely quirky yet simultaneously glamorous, this is what we could call the brave new world of Gucci, leading us to look forward the next breakthrough of the brand.

“Michele breathed much younger and more whimsical vibes into the brand.”

amous for its vivid green hue, the emerald is revered by jewellers and connoisseurs, and is among the most valuable of gemstones. Unrivalled when it comes to the intensity of its colour, the crème de la crème of beryls is perhaps the only gemstone where inclusions are tolerated. And those in immaculate condition, well, they’re destined for museums or masterpieces.

Bulgari’s Italian Extravaganza necklace, one of the key pieces of the Magnificent Inspirations high jewellery collection, is a prime example of a flawless emerald put to good use. The necklace features an astounding 17-carat round emerald complemented by flawless diamonds and emeralds.

Designer Cindy Chao enriches her Four Seasons collection with a beautifully crafted floral bangle that highlights a cabochon emerald amid diamonds and tsavorites. Chao crafted this piece using a 360-degree gemsetting technique, which guarantees perfect pavé setting from all angles.

Graff, a brand known for its fondness for huge, flawless gemstones, impresses with its diamond-studded Secret Carved Emerald Watch, which features a 33.7-carat emerald carved with flowers. It took Graff ’s craftsmen more than 200 hours of work to mount, set and polish the diamonds in this remarkable secret watch.

Newcomer Nirav Modi from India, meanwhile, has chosen two perfectly cut Colombian emeralds from its trove of gemstones and transformed them into floral dangling earrings surrounded by diamonds.

Not to be outdone, Tiffany & Co has created a striking set comprising emerald and diamond drop earrings and an emerald-set ring in platinum.