Tatler Indonesia

Magical Month

Enjoy a special feature about Moroccan traditions and vistas this holy month

- Photograph­er: irwan kurnia

RAMADAN, WHICH IS CONSIDERED THE HOLIEST TIME FOR MUSLIMS, HAPPENS ON THE NINTH MONTH OF THE 12-MONTH LUNAR CALENDAR THAT IS FOLLOWED IN ISLAM. NEARLY 2 BILLION MUSLIMS AROUND THE GLOBE ENTER RAMADAN TO RECONNECT WITH GOD THROUGH FASTING, ABSTINENCE FROM SEX AND DRINK FROM DAWN TO DUSK, PRAYING EXTRA DEDICATION­S AT HOME AND IN MOSQUES IN THE EVENINGS, AND SEEKING FORGIVENES­S FOR SINS.

For the Kingdom of Morocco’s ambassador to Indonesia, HE Ouadiâ Benabdella­h, and his spouse, Madame Hind Benabdella­h, Ramadan is a time to get closer to God and also time to preserve silaturahi­m by spending time together with his family and visiting relatives. Although he doesn’t get to return to Morocco in this special month, the Ramadan atmosphere in Jakarta reminds him very much of his home town.

Moroccan people are known to be fond of their own traditions. They celebrate their religious occasions in their own way—in Moroccan philosophy, the holy month is a turning point for your spirit to be purified and it’s an appropriat­e time to share what you have with less-fortunate people, HE Ouadiâ told Indonesia Tatler.

When it comes to Ramadan, traditiona­l dishes and pastries are at the top of the list of most-consumed foods in Morocco. Sandwiches and chips are quickly replaced with a soup called harira, which is Morocco’s famous tomato and lentil soup: a recipe that every Moroccan cook has in their collection. It is a hearty dish as it features meat—beef, lamb, or chicken—as well as legumes. It is fragrantly seasoned with ginger, pepper, turmeric, and cinnamon, and also boasts a robust quantity of fresh herbs such as cilantro and parsley. In addition, hard-boiled eggs, sweet or savoury filled pastries, fried fish, and various pancakes and flatbreads might also be served.

Beside harira, another delightful food to serve for fast-breaking, or ftour, is rich honey pastries called chebbakiya, a Moroccan sesame cookie shaped into a flower, then fried and then coated with honey. The ftour—the Arabic word for fast-breaking as Muslims break their fast in a literal sense at sunset—is undoubtedl­y the most important meal in a Ramadan day.

“For that, my wife enthusiast­ically decorate our table with all sorts of Moroccan dishes and pastries, including customary pastries like briwate, baghrire, and msemmen. In the past, it was common for most Moroccan families to make these pastries at home. Today, many opt to purchase these

delicacies at bakeries that increase in numbers during Ramadan,” explains HE Ouadiâ.

Fasting does not automatica­lly mean less or light food for Moroccans—its cuisine is traditiona­lly rich dishes that are served with extra care and to perfection. The dishes vary from one area to another, but there are common features for a typical Moroccan

ftour. “It’s time for family members to gather around one table sharing their tasty meals and exchanging intimate stories. It is a moment of celebratio­n, happiness and enjoyment,” Madame Hind said.

The ftour takes a few hours. Various dishes are served, so more space and tables are required because Moroccans often entertain guests during Ramadan. After harira comes a variety of breads such as msemen and rghayif (layered flatbreads cooked in a skillet); puffed, pita bread called batbout; and harcha—an unleavened flatbread, sometimes made with cornmeal. Grouped with them on the table are marmalades, butter, and cheeses, often including a fresh cheese called jben. There are bowls of olives and hard-boiled eggs, which are peeled and then dipped in cumin or pepper; all these mixtures and flavours bring about a harmony that matches Ramadan’s spirt of togetherne­ss.

After a day without water or any liquids, these are essential to the meal. Water is consumed along with sweet tea, juice, milk, and smoothies, while mint tea is served at the end of the meal. The ftour is considered a light meal, and after their fast Moroccans then socialise with friends and family. The evening ends with a dinner known as l’asha. This is an elaborate affair, which might feature lamb or chicken and a selection of salads. Ramadan nights are short in order to fit in the Moroccan morning suhoor before sunrise. This meal may include milk, baked foods, and, of course, plenty of liquids in preparatio­n for a day without water.

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 ??  ?? Festive delicacies Traditonal Moroccan and modern dishes both make Eid al-fitr a happy occasion
Festive delicacies Traditonal Moroccan and modern dishes both make Eid al-fitr a happy occasion
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