LIFE AND SEOUL
A thriving metropolis surrounded by natural beauty, South Korea’s capital has all-round appeal, says Andrew Salmon
The buzz and beauty of South Korea’s capital city, from ancient royal palaces to rugged mountains
The throbbing heart of South Korea, Seoul pumps the national life-blood at a powerful pressure. High tech, high expense and high energy, it is one of the liveliest cities in Asia, and has much to offer the business traveller with some time to explore.
Physically, Seoul comprises steel-and-glass highrise office block clusters and drabber processions of identical concrete apartment buildings, interspersed with chaotic tangles of houses and villas. All of this is threaded through with a grid of teeming boulevards, highways, overpasses and bridges.
Although architecturally uninspired, Seoul is topographically blessed – the city is watered by the broad Han river and overlooked by dramatic mountains to the north. It’s also big – Greater Seoul is the world’s thirdlargest urban conurbation, with half of Korea’s 50 million people. This makes a geography briefing essential.
Seoul is divided by the Han. North of that sits the CBD, Gwanghwamun, home to multinationals and embassies. Yeouido, an island in the river, hosts financial firms, broadcasters and the National Assembly, while Gangnam (literally, “South of the River”) is packed with tech firms, including the headquarters for Samsung and Hyundai-Kia.
Made famous by pop artist Psy’s hit song Gangnam Style, this area is largely of interest to fashionistas, shopaholics and clubbers. Seoul’s less frenetic, more natural attractions – its mountain spine, royal palaces, clutches of traditional homes and major markets – all lie north of the Han. Most of the key sights radiate out from the CBD and can be easily explored on foot.
A visit to one of Seoul’s five medieval palaces – Changdeokgung, Deoksugung, Unhyeongung, Changgyeonggung and Gyeongbokgung – is a must. All offer gorgeous aesthetics, although continual restoration has diluted authenticity. The biggest and oldest is Gyeongbokgung, around which Seoul was originally sited; it still sits regally at the head of the photogenic Gwanghwamun Boulevard, and is backdropped by Mount Bugaksan. Following the principles of feng shui, the presidential mansion, the Blue House, stands behind the palace (subways: Gyeongbokgung, Gwanghwamun or Anguk; palace open 9am-6pm Wed-Mon; royalpalace.go.kr).
Northward, the forested slopes of Mount Bugaksan are traversed by Bugak Skyway, an alpine highway. The mountaintop neighbourhood of Buam-Dong is a good place to stop for drinks or coffee, then stroll through the medieval Changuimun fortress gate to find contourhugging parks showcasing jaw-dropping city views. One drawback is you need a car. Ask your hotel concierge for help booking one.
North of Mount Bugaksan spreads the rugged Mount Bukhansan National Park, intersected by trails leading to ancient fortresses and hidden Buddhist temples. To hike here, set aside at least half a day.
Immediately west of Gyeongbokgung palace lies the attractive lowrise district of Seocheon, with alleys offering cosy pubs and restaurants. East of the palace is the district of Samcheong-Dong (subway: Anguk), which is sprinkled with coffee shops, boutiques and wine bars. The area’s
highest point is Bukchon Hanok, a pretty hub of restored traditional cottages.
South of here is Insadong (subway: Jonggak), a tourist hotspot selling Koreana including antiques, art, calligraphy sets (nice desk ornaments), jewellery and neo-traditional fashion.
Diagonally across from Gyeongbokgung’s south gate stands the National Museum of Contemporary Korean History, which covers colonisation, the Korean War, the 1960s “economic miracle” and the 1980s struggle for democracy (subway: Gwanghwamun; open Tues-Sun 9am-6pm, Wed and Sat until 9pm; much.go.kr). Just under a kilometre south-west is Seoul History Museum, which tells the country’s story from its founding in 1392 to the present day (subway: Seodaemun; open Mon-Fri 9am-8pm, Sat-Sun until 7pm; museum.seoul.kr).
Heading south from Gyeongbokgung down the broad Sejong-Daero road, you pass the Cheonggyecheon Stream to your left. This waterway winds for miles and is lined with bars and cafés, many with terraces, throughout the downtown area. Continuing along Sejong-Daero, City Hall is on the left – the colonialera building is dwarfed by a giant glass sculpture of an overturning-wave – and Deoksugung palace is on the right (subway: City Hall). The alley beside the palace leads to Jeong-dong, a quiet neighbourhood noted for its early 20th-century architecture.
Sejong-Daero terminates at Namdaemun Gate, Seoul’s original southern entrance and the capital’s most iconic structure. Across from the castellated gate sprawls Namdaemun market. Dive into this chaotic, 24/7 labyrinth for food, fashion and household goods – bargain like hell. Adjacent to the market – assuming you find your way out – is the shopping precinct of Myeong-Dong, with its huge department stores and international boutiques.
Not everything lies just beyond Gyeongbokgung’s gates; nightlife districts are a 15-minute taxi journey away. To the east is Hongdae, an alternative scene with eateries, bars and clubs, some offering live music (subway: Hongik University). South-west is Itaewon, formerly Seoul’s foreign ghetto but now colonised by hipsters, which offers foreign bars and restaurants, plus red lights and a gay scene (subway: Itaewon).
Next to Itaewon is Gyeongnidan, a street of smaller foreign pubs and eateries, many specialising in craft beer (subway: Noksapyeong); and Hannam-Dong, largely an upmarket overspill. Both feature late-night boozing.
Alas, Seoul is so vast, you will barely scratch its surface. But given that it is Asia’s most happening city, the real “must do” is a return trip.