Hide; plus the best places for a busi­ness break­fast

Business Traveller - - CONTENTS - Guy Di­mond

Hide is al­ready London’s most im­por­tant restau­rant open­ing of 2018. It could hardly fail to be with a re­puted £20 mil­lion spent and one of the coun­try’s most tal­ented chefs, Ol­lie Dab­bous, lead­ing the kitchen. Award-win­ning som­me­liers were head­hunted to show­case the UK’s most im­pres­sive wine list. There are 450 bot­tles listed in a leather-bound tome, plus the op­tion of delv­ing, by Ipad, into the 6,500 op­tions from the cel­lars of the Rus­sian own­ers’ other en­ter­prise, He­donism Wines (May­fair’s pre­miere wine shop). All this op­u­lence im­presses, but not in a vul­gar way. The clue is in the name – Hide is about stealth wealth, and the dis­creet ap­pre­ci­a­tion of lux­ury.

The venue oc­cu­pies three floors of a cor­ner site in May­fair, three years in the mak­ing. The base­ment is a cosy bar, with a few pri­vate din­ing rooms hid­den in al­coves around it. “Ground” brasserie – on the ground floor – is the main din­ing area, open from break­fast un­til late. “Above” is the top-flight pri­vate din­ing rooms, serv­ing multi-course tast­ing menus. Above is also ser­viced by a pri­vate (car) lift, just in case the beau­ti­ful spi­ral stair­case link­ing the floors isn’t dis­creet enough for you.

Ol­lie Dab­bous held a Miche­lin star at his first restau­rant, and is cer­tain to at­tain at least one at Hide. High­lights of our meal in­cluded a plump ten­ta­cle of bar­be­cued oc­to­pus that was pleas­ingly charred and served with the sour-sweet flavours of lo­vage and raw grapes; a dessert of warm acorn cake drenched in rum and served with clot­ted cream; and, on an early morn­ing break­fast re­visit, what might be the best por­ridge in London.

VER­DICT A chef at the height of his pow­ers has teamed up with wine con­nois­seurs who have very deep pock­ets and im­pec­ca­ble taste. The re­sult is bril­liant food, a fan­tas­tic wine list cu­rated by ex­pert staff, and a low-key and re­lax­ing am­bi­ence. Hide is ex­cel­lent, and that rare thing: a des­ti­na­tion for break­fast, lunch or din­ner.

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