CHANGE IS BREWING
Prague’s Habsburg years bequeathed it a Viennese-style café culture, notably at Café Savoy, Café Louvre and Café Slavia. The scene thrived during interwar Czechoslovakia, but inevitably suffered during communism.
In the post-1989 revival, the above are facing some healthy competition from cosmopolitan young entrepreneurs. “I think that Prague is up there with Copenhagen and London when it comes to coffee,” argues Jan Valenta of Taste of Prague Food Tours. Must-tries include city centre EMA Espresso Bar and, in the inner districts, Coffee Room in Vinohrady and Můj šálek kávy in Karlín.
Cafés also offer a good place to try Czech wine, which is coming into its own. “Wine consumption is actually increasing in the Czech Republic, whereas beer consumption is declining,” explains Isabelle du Plessix, who runs wine tours in Bohemia and Moravia.