TRIED AND TESTED HOTELS

One Aldwych, London; The Alexander, Yerevan

BACKGROUND

This hotel relaunched in June after a four-month closure for renovation. When it first opened in 1998 it was a breath of fresh air for London’s hotel scene, with great service, quirky design, a well-known general manager – Simon Hirst – and Gordon Campbell Gray as managing director, who was involved in buying the property’s impressive art collection. Having most recently spent four years at Raffles Singapore, Hirst returned to One Aldwych as managing director for the opening.

WHAT’S IT LIKE?

Back in 1998 Campbell Gray said the hotel was about “stealth wealth rather than dripping deluxe”, and it’s the same today. It’s expensive in a tasteful way, and you could spend some time simply touring the property and treating it like an art gallery – there are about 350 contemporary pieces displayed throughout. From the outside, it’s very grand – taking its name from its position on Aldwych, it was built in 1907 by Charles Mewès and Arthur Davis, responsible for the Ritz London and Ritz Paris. As you enter you’ll see two papier-mâché dogs by Justine Smith – the newest, made from old one-pound banknotes, joining the Beano dog that she created for the original opening. By reception is Emily Young’s stone sculpture head of Dionysus.

WHERE IS IT?

On Aldwych, off the Strand and on the edge of Covent Garden. ROOMS There are 102 in total (23-78 sqm) – 20 Classic, 40 Superior, 26 Deluxe and 16 suites. Robert Angell has redesigned them for what the hotel calls a “timeless, residential vibe”. They are in a colour scheme of coral, celadon green, soft blue and lavender and feature British-made furniture, oak parquet floors and throws by Scottish company Skye Weavers.

All have Nespresso machines, kettles, free wifi, effective air-conditioning, large Loewe TVs, Bang and Olufsen bluetooth speakers and Dyson hairdryers. The lighting was easy to adjust and there were lots of places to charge devices, including bedside USB ports. Complimentary international newspapers and shoe shine are provided, as is water in glass bottles rather than plastic. Bathrooms have underfloor heating, while suites have TVs at the end of the bath. Most Classic and Superior rooms are shower-only. Amenities are from Mitchell and Peach.

FOOD AND DRINK

The Lobby Bar features high ceilings, arched windows and original panelling. Continental breakfast, light lunch, afternoon tea and evening light bites are served, and there is also a new cocktail list. Indigo restaurant, which is on the mezzanine floor overlooking the bar, is now brighter and serves a great breakfast (£32 for full English). Eneko Basque Kitchen and Bar opened in 2016 and is led by chef Eneko Atxa of three Michelin-starred Spanish restaurant Azurmendi. It’s a difficult space to make work for a restaurant, in a cavernous room underground, and perhaps works better in winter than summer.

Exclusive to hotel guests and health club members, the Lounge at One was created in 2012. It’s a lovely, peaceful space, with a menu of light dishes, cocktails, wines and hot drinks, plus complimentary croissants, juice, fruit, tea and coffee on weekday mornings (6.30-8am).

You could spend some time simply touring the property, treating it as an art gallery

MEETINGS

Poised to open as we went to press was a 30-seat cinema available for private hire. There are also several meeting rooms, some overlooking Aldwych (all have good soundproofing).

LEISURE

Located in the basement, the health club has a good-sized, recently refitted gym with a chlorine-free pool, sauna, steam room and treatment rooms.

VERDICT

This excellent update retains the qualities that regulars liked about the hotel. If you want to treat yourself, you’ve come to the right place.

BESTFOR

Luxury and great service in a true five-star boutique setting

DON’TMISS

An evening swim in the pool, followed by a leisurely breakfast in Indigo the next morning as a reward

PRICE

Internet rates for a flexible midweek stay in October started from £605 for a Classic room

CONTACT

One Aldwych; tel +44 (0)20 7300 1000; onealdwych.com