TRIPS OUT OF TOWN

If you have time, there are some excellent excursions close to the capital.

IN HALF A DAY…

Located about 9km north of Zagreb, Medvednica Nature

Park is criss-crossed by a network of well-marked hiking trails, leading through meadows and woodlands. Begin at the Sljeme tunnel, then follow the most popular trail (number 18) to the Bliznec Information Centre and up to the Puntijarka mountain hut (6km; 927 metres above sea level), where you can refuel with a classic hiker’s lunch of

grah s kobasicom (beans and sausages). Medvednica’s highest peak, Mount Sljeme, rises 1,035 metres and offers skiing in winter. pp-medvednica.hr

IN A FULL DAY…

About 50km north of the city, rural Zagorje is known for its sleepy villages, imposing castles and hills planted with vineyards. Several wineries are open for tours and tasting (reservations recommended), notably Bodren, Bolfan and Vuglec Breg. On November 11, Martinje (St Martin’s Day) is enthusiastically celebrated in Zagorje with the blessing of the season’s new wine. The best castles to visit are the sturdy medieval Veliki Tabor and the white fairytale Trakoscan. For lunch, try Gresna Gorica near Veliki Tabor, which serves rustic local specialities such as zapeceni strukli (baked cheese dumplings). visitzagorje.hr, bodren.hr, bolfanvinskivrh.hr, vuglec-breg.hr, gresna-gorica.hr

OVERNIGHT…

Croatia’s most visited inland destination, Plitvice Lakes National

Park is a UNESCO World Heritage site located 130km south of Zagreb. It’s set amid dense pine forests that conceal 16 turquoise lakes connected by a series of cascades and waterfalls. The entrance ticket (from 60 kn/£7.27 to 250 kn/ £30.28 depending on the season) gives you access to a labyrinth of wooden walkways that cross the park and the national park boats that traverse the lakes. Stay at the luxurious Fenomen Plitvice boutique hotel. np-plitvicka-jezera.hr, fenomen-plitvice.com