4 HOURS IN... MUNICH
Hot-foot it around the German city’s new and historic sights
Art, architecture and beers in the Bavarian city
1 WERKSVIERTEL
Working, living, learning, eating, celebrating and attending concerts – the new quarter next to Munich’s Ostbahnhof (East station) combines high-tech modernity with vibrant art and culture. This former industrial area is gradually being transformed, its converted factories and warehouses and contemporary new buildings housing studios, workshops, bars, restaurants, homes and offices. View it all from above at the MH5 Roof Bar, with its panoramic terrace (Atelierstrasse 10; muenchenhoch5.de), or from the 78-metre-tall Hi-Sky Ferris wheel, which occupies an area earmarked for a new concert hall (construction is planned to start next year). werksviertel.de
2 MUSEUM QUARTER
Take a taxi to the museum quarter in Maxvorstadt, to the north-west of Werksviertel. One of the most outstanding areas for art and culture in Europe, it’s home to galleries such as the Old and New Pinakothek, the Pinakothek der Moderne, the Museum Brandhorst (pictured left) and the Lenbachhaus, as well as ancient sculpture museum the Glyptothek, which reopens in January following renovations.
One of the most spectacular works currently on show in the quarter is Anish Kapoor’s Howl, a gigantic sculpture that has been hovering like a UFO in the rotunda of the Pinakothek der Moderne since September. An expression of female strength and passion, according to the artist, at 14 metres high by 22 metres wide it is certainly the city’s largest feminist statement of the moment. pinakothek.de
3 THE ITALIAN INFLUENCE
If Ludwig I of Bavaria hadn’t been so profligate, Munich would be much more provincial today. The monarch (from 1825 to 1848) was an avowed fan of Italy, which is why
he had much of the city redesigned by his court architect, Leo von Klenze, and von Klenze’s rival, Friedrich von Gartner, based on the Roman-Florentine model. A few minutes’ walk from the Pinakothek der Moderne, the Feldherrnhalle on Odeonsplatz, with its three triumphal arches – best to be marvelled at in all its splendour over a cappuccino at Café Tambosi (Odeonsplatz 18) – is an expression of La Dolce Vita north of the Alps.
Maximilianstrasse, between the opera and the Maximilianeum, also has an Italian feel. As well as including many houses built in Renaissance style, it’s lined with fashion boutiques from the likes of Armani, Versace, Valentino and Dolce and Gabbana. When Vespa drivers weave past Ferraris and Fiats in summer, you could almost feel as if you’re on Rome’s Corso Vittorio Emanuele II.
4 BMW WELT
From Maximilianstrasse, take a taxi north-west to the home of Bavaria’s own BMW. Located in the shadow of the Olympic Tower is the car giant’s main factory, its corporate HQ – known as “Four Cylinders”, for obvious reasons when you look at it – the BMW Museum and BMW Welt. The last of these is housed in a futuristic building that offers car exhibitions and experiences as well as being a vehicle-collection location and event venue. It also has several dining options – the best is Esszimmer, which holds two Michelin stars under chef Bobby Brauer. Open for dinner (Tues-Sat), it also offers diners a complimentary BMW chauffeur drive home. Entry to BMW Welt is free. bmw-welt.com
5 PUB GARDENS
You may be out of time now, but if you can squeeze in a drink then head for one of the city’s legendary beer gardens. The people of Munich like to socialise outside and the Covid-19 crisis has, if anything, encouraged al fresco drinking and dining, with the city council allowing restaurants and bars to set up tables and chairs in parking bays to make up for lost sales. In winter, patio heaters and lambskin blankets will keep you warm if the alcohol doesn’t. Good options include the Deutsche Eiche, a Munich institution in the Glockenbachviertel; the Spatenhaus (pictured above), overlooking the opera; and the Café Jasmin, which brings 1950s chic to Augustenstrasse. deutsche-eiche.de, kuffler.de, cafe-jasmin.com