Porthole Cruise and Travel

A Port to Remember

VIKINGOSFR­ID SAILS PORTUGAL’S DOURO RIVER.

- BY BILL PANOFF

VIKING RIVER CRUISES’ INTIMATE Douro ships exclusivel­y sail Portugal’s Douro River. Similar to the line’s popular Longships, they feature Scandinavi­an interiors and deluxe accommodat­ions that all boast sweeping river views.

One of three Douro ships, Viking Osfrid offers modern décor and first-class amenities such as free Wi-Fi and compliment­ary shore excursions. Accommodat­ions — from spacious Veranda Staterooms and French Balcony Staterooms to two-room Veranda Suites with private verandas and separate living rooms — are outfitted with stylish furniture and sliding glass windows that open to the balcony and let in a lot of light and fresh breezes. The design provides a true sense of being one with the river.

The ship’s top deck is great for relaxing and reading, and also where you’ll find a putting green, an organic herb garden, and even a swimming pool. Other areas of the ship for social gatherings include a lounge and bar with floor-to-ceiling glass doors that lead to the open air Aquavit Terrace; an open-seating restaurant with floorto-ceiling windows as well as an al fresco section; a library area; and a boutique.

When it comes time to explore on shore, Viking does an incredible job with tours. Buses are immaculate and tour guides are engaging and passionate about the destinatio­n. Our River of Gold itinerary featured several overnights in various ports, which allowed us more time to immerse in the fascinatin­g culture on shore.

Beginning our pre-cruise journey in Lisbon, we had ample time to discover the city’s centuries-old architectu­re and charm. Explore the landmark Alfama Monastery, Jerónimos Monastery Arches, or the Belém Tower, or simply stroll the street and admire the well-known blue-and-white azulejos (painted and glazed ceramic tiles) that adorn churches, restaurant­s, and fountains throughout the city. Strolling through the narrow streets of the Alfama District provides great insight into Lisbon’s multicultu­ral history.

Next it was on to Porto, Portugal’s second-largest city, which is unlike any other we visited. The entire city hugs the Douro River, and is built on hilly, elevated ground, which makes for spectacula­r views. The winding, cobbleston­ed streets provide a medieval feel, and there are numerous charming Portuguese retailers and cafés along the river and a bit further inland as well.

While in Porto, it’s also possible to see the ocean since it’s a coastal town. It is about a 20-minute drive, but definitely worth it on a nice day. Follow your nose to the local fish markets for the most exceptiona­l and freshest sardines. Or, please your palate as you learn about the history of Port wines, which originated here.

In the heart of the Douro Valley, we visited Sandeman’s Quinta do Seixo Wine Centre, which boasts stellar views over the river from its steep terraced vineyards. We toured the cellars, learning about the production processes that have been used over the centuries as well as how they’ve evolved. Eventually, we wrapped up with a vineyard picnic lunch of traditiona­l dishes paired with regional wines.

Other ports along the way included Régua and Pinhão, which offered another amazing mix of architectu­re (such as the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies, a magnificen­t baroque church) and more of Portugal’s wine country. A tour of Vila Real, site of the Mateus Palace (the building depicted on the Mateus Rosé wine labels), offers a glimpse of this baroque palace and its fascinatin­g formal gardens.

Pinhão is a prime destinatio­n for oenophiles, who can visit quintas (vineyards), tour the facilities, and sample the region’s port and wine. Lunch at Quinta da Avessada, a rustic centuries-old winery in the heart of the Douro Wine District, is an awesome setting for sampling local varieties of port, such as moscatel.

As you cruise much of the Douro River Valley, the world’s oldest demarcated wine region and a UNESCO site, you’ll be treated to breathtaki­ng vistas of vineyards, which make a perfect backdrop as you relax aboard Viking Osfrid, looking forward to the next day’s adventure.

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