Get the most out of your side trip to Cinque Terre.
Get the most out of your side trip to Cinque Terre.
KNOWN AS THE ITALIAN RIVIERA, Cinque Terre (pronounced Ching-kway
Ter-ray) is a cluster of five picturesque villages in Northwest Italy that adorn the shoreline with colorful buildings, steep cliffs, beautifully rugged and rocky beaches, and small but completely charming ports and harbors. And if you are cruising in or out of Italy — especially through the ports of Genoa or Livorno ( Florence) — this seaside treasure is a short day trip away and the ideal complement to your European cruise.
Situated in the region of Liguria, which also boasts other famous seaside towns like Portofino and Sanremo, Cinque Terre is the perfect place to not just savor the beauty of Italy but to fall in love with the food, the people, and the culture as well. And despite its seemingly remote location, Cinque Terre is easily accessible by train, boat, or car. One of the easiest ways to enjoy your visit, however, is to make the nearby town of La Spezia your home base.
Liguria is divided into four provinces: Imperia, Savona, Genoa, and La Spezia. This small naval town is just south of the five villages and is known as a great hub for trips to Cinque Terre — but it also has its own merits. Liguria’s great foodie exports, — namely, focaccia and pesto, — can be found in plenty in La Spezia. Try restored- cellar-turned-restaurant Osteria all’Inferno on Via Lorenzo Costa to sample a bit of both. The restaurant has been passed down through one family and even though it’s run by two brothers, the food will make you think your Italian grandmother (whether you have one or not) is in the kitchen. Try the homemade gnocchi with the region’s special pesto. If you’ve got a craving for fish, sit sideby-side with the locals at Dai Pescatori, a unique, super casual eatery run as a co-op between local fishermen.
From La Spezia, getting to Cinque Terre is simple and traveling by train is recommended. Return to La Spezia Centrale and you will find that Trenitalia runs all year round between the five villages. Purchase a Cinque Terre Card (price varies depending on season) that offers you unlimited train and shuttle rides as well as access to all hiking trails in the National Park. It’s easiest to start at the furthest village (Monterosso) and work your way south. And it is possible to see all of the towns in just one day, but if you’re lucky enough to be overnighting, it’s more fun to find your favorite nook, beach, or cliff and enjoy the view, basking in the fact that you have one more day. Each village is different and each has at least one magnificent highlight that’s worth the visit.
Rent one of the colorful umbrellas and sunbathe and swim in the turquoise waters.
Church of San Giovanni Battista
Opposite page from top right: Latte art; St. Peter’s Church in Corniglia; Scalinata Lardarina; Lovers leave locks of love on the Via dell’Amore The view in Vernazza If you have seen a postcard from Cinque Terre, chances are the photo was taken in Vernazza. This famously beautiful town is a stunning puzzle of brightly painted buildings intricately fitting together to create a vibrant backdrop for those envy-inducing snapshots. While it’s difficult to compete with the views, this particular village is also home to Gelateria Vernazza on Via Roma, where art meets deliciousness made with locally sourced ingredients like lemons, figs, honey, and fresh fruit. Strolling along the breakwater with your gelato, listening to the church bells tell the time makes for a perfect day in Vernazza.
Savor the steps in Corniglia Corniglia is the only one of the villages with no direct access to the sea. Compensating for that is the fact that the town is perched high above the water, offering stunning views. Climb the 375 steps of the Scalinata Lardarina for a photo-worthy opportunity and then spend your time at A Caneva, opposite the Church of San Pietro, an amazing oasis in the heart of the village where you can while away your time while sipping a coffee, a cold drink (try the lemonade or the Aperol spritz), or local wine and savoring some focaccia, roasted veggies, pizza, pasta, or fresh salads. Snack and sip on the stairs outside the tiny restaurant (they offer cushions!) or ask to be seated in the garden slightly apart from the storefront and feel miles away from civilization. The perfect village to stop for lunch, Corniglia offers much more after your appetite is quenched. Rich in history and offering a very authentic Italian experience, expend your lunch calories roaming the town and hiking up to the Terrazza Belvedere di Santa Maria for a view of Corniglia and all of Cinque Terre.
Hike and lights in Manarola The village of Manarola is smaller than the others and its tiny harbor and town are seemingly built into the cliff. The terraced vineyards offer a glimpse of just one of the special things Manarola has to offer — but it’s not what you might expect. If you’re lucky enough to visit during the holiday season, Manarola boasts the largest nativity scene, or presepe (“crib”), in the world. A magnificent display of lights adorn the hillside, with thousands of bulbs depicting the figures of Mary, baby Jesus, angels, and various animals for a total of more than 300 characters. The display runs from the first week of December through late January or early February. If it’s not winter, opt for a view of those same hills: The hiking path between Manarola and Riomaggiore (the next village) is known as Via dell’Amore, the most popular and easiest part of the coastal trail between the five villages.
View of Manarola's cliffside