The True Colors of Greenland
H IDDEN AWAY AT THE TOP OF THE WORLD, GREENLAND IS NATURE IN HER PUREST FORM
Hidden away at the top of the world, Greenland is nature in her purest form.
The chartered plane had left Copenhagen in the twilight of a Baltic summer night, but four hours and four time zones later, the brilliance of Greenland’s endless daylight blazed through the plane’s window. The terrain was a blinding white. Ice and snow blanketed the surface as far as the eye could see. Then, an arid and eerie moonscape emerged as the plane landed at the outpost airport of Kangerlussuaq, sandwiched between barren bouldered mountains.
My previous experience on Hurtigruten’s MS Midnatsol in Antarctica was compelling motivation to seek out encore thrills. The promise of exploring the remote west coast of Greenland made its way to the top of my summer’s travel roster. Buoyed by Norway’s historic seafaring legacy, Hurtigruten cut its teeth on bold cruise expeditions. This 17-day itinerary along Greenland’s west coast only serves to extend their adventurous reputation. Greenland, formerly a colony of Denmark and now an independently governed entity, is an environmentally sensitive destination that is testing the waters of sustainable tourism. Emerging from a fragile isolation, this destination provides a rare opportunity to visit a place that has not sold its soul to the whims of the tourist trade. The experience of visiting this, the world’s largest island, is an experience far removed from urban sprawl, white-sand beaches, and cathedrals. Cruising Greenland, rather, is an eye-opening journey, an expedition that reduces the visitor to a state of childlike wonder in comprehending the grand scale of nature at her most authentic.
Cruising Greenland, rather, is an eye-opening journey, an expedition that reduces the visitor to a state of childlike wonder in comprehending the grand scale of nature at her most authentic.
Our expedition on the 250-passenger MS Fram features up-close engagement with staggering landscapes, a more-than-suitable substitute for onboard opulence. The Fram never claims to be an extravagant megaship, but the modern Scandinavian design and welcoming decor are striking, and the ship boasts spacious public areas and impressive facilities. While stateroom categories appeal to all budgets, the sumptuous Arctic Superior cabins and Expedition Suites exceed expectations and can hold their own with premiumbrand vessels.
Our initiation into the experiential cruising commences on our first afternoon as we intrepid adventurers are whisked off by boat to the abandoned whaling station of Assaqutaq. Deep-red buildings set against massive grey boulders, a picturesque seascape background … it all seems imbued with a Kodachrome intensity. Subsequent visits to Sisimiut and similar villages reveal a dichotomy: the subtlety of life embraced by the grandeur of the surroundings. These small, remote settlements reflect the Hurtigruten spirit, unassuming but brimming with character and local color.
Our adventures ashore (and a menu of intriguing optional excursions) accentuate the unique niche this ambitious company seeks to fill. Highly trained expedition leaders impart expert knowledge throughout the cruise, with both onboard presentations and onshore guidance. As the ship edges northward, we share navigational lanes with massive icebergs — cold, colossal contributions to the dramatic vision that is Baffin Bay. These frozen giants, many as large as the ship, are fostered by glaciers that have carved their way through mountain gorges for centuries, before eventually calving the scarred remnants of blue ice into the fjords.
A Dream Ship
When there’s a break from outdoor adventures, onboard amenities and activities stand ready to take the stage. Leisure time between ports allows guests to thaw in the sauna and twin Jacuzzis. The gymnasium presents opportunities for invigorating exercise. Our minds are given a workout too, with lectures on geology, culture, and ecological efforts provided by specialists in their relevant fields. The beautiful observation lounge provides unfettered views of the passing scenery through its 270-degree, full-glass panoramic window.
Dining aboard reveals a Scandinavian influence on traditional cruise cuisine. As on Fram’s sister ship in Antarctica, breakfast and lunches are served buffet-style with a large variety of themed entrées. Dinners alternate between full-service affairs and buffets, depending on the day’s sailing schedule.
Our Northernmost Extreme
As the vessel ventures northward beyond civilization and cautiously creeps through the ice fields of Nares Strait, we all venture on deck, swaddled in our complimentary orange parkas. Facing the crisp chill of the Arctic becomes a daily ritual of delight, but the adventure takes on new urgency as Arctic ice completely blocks Fram’s path at 78 degrees north. The ship secures position and expedition leaders implement Plan B: escorting guests into Zodiacs for an even closer encounter with the massive platforms of frozen sea ice.
The next morning finds the ship anchored just off Foulke Fjord. A bonus onshore hike up the rocks ventures into true wilderness, a region known for musk ox and reindeer-grazing fields. While the animals were nowhere to be seen, traces of their very recent presence exist alongside colorful Arctic flora.
Having reached its northernmost destination, Fram turns south to visit the village of Qaanaaq, established in 1953 by Greenland natives relocated from the Thule Air Base area. A native drum performance and costume exhibition provides insight into traditional village life near the top of the world.
The Fram never claims to be an extravagant megaship, but the modern Scandinavian design and welcoming decor are striking.
Arctic Life
Visits to Upernavik, Itilleq, and the beaches of Atanikerdluk serve up an intoxicating cocktail of curiosity, spiked with wows, hows, and whys. Life here comes with challenges that are difficult to fathom. Locals, however, appear oblivious to the outside world. They carry on with a rustic yet sustainable lifestyle.
An excursion by boat to the Ilulissat Icefjord leads us into a faceto-face confrontation with the massive, white giants constantly being shed from the Sermeq Kujalleq glacier. This is the most productive river of ice in the northern hemisphere, advancing 80 to 100 feet per day and calving up to 20 billion tons of icebergs each year.
As the vessel returns to Kangerlussuaq, departing guests are treated to a full-day, grand-finale expedition to the precipice of the mighty Reindeer Glacier, fed by the immense Greenland Ice Sheet. More than 80 percent of Greenland’s land mass has been laminated in this glacial ice and snow for over 800,000 years. Our close-up view of one fraction of this frozen expanse awes us with what it reveals of the island’s footprint. Then, we enjoy a farewell barbecue dinner of reindeer sausage, musk ox, and assorted salads at the local rowing club prior to boarding the overnight flight back to Copenhagen.
It takes time to wrap your head around the vastness of Greenland. The scale of this island permits exploration without intrusion and provides a glimpse of a destination that has yet to be touted by guidebooks. It’s somewhat reminiscent of untouched Alaska back in the late 60s, sans the megaship tourists. Touring Greenland is an opportunity to stay one step ahead of the travel bubble. To experience the spectacles of Arctic nature in an unexploited wilderness is salve for the soul.
Our minds are given a workout too, with lectures on geology, culture, and ecological efforts provided by specialists in their relevant fields.