Carb- Load­ing Zone

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At dusk, La Ter­razza turns on its charm. Any trace of day­time buf­fets van­ish. Blinds are low­ered, lights are dimmed. Servers don suits and ties and set ta­bles with fancier china. Guest count is lim­ited to en­hance in­ti­macy. Come here to un­abashedly carb load. (It’s al­ways best to do it where it’s worth it!) First, the bread­bas­ket. Marvel at the fresh-baked breads tex­tu­ral range, from crispy lavash and soft tomato fo­cac­cia to crusty seeded rolls. Spread roasted gar­lic on the bread. Or driz­zle ex­tra vir­gin olive oil and bal­samic vine­gar onto the bread plate and dunk in the bread. I sug­gest all three: oil, vine­gar, and then gar­lic. It’s called a win-win-win. The many house­made pas­tas change of­ten, but the sig­na­ture pap­pardelle with duck ragout stays. It’s like a Bolognese, but richer. I also like the hand-fash­ioned ravi­oli, stuffed with ri­cotta, onions and fresh spinach and strewn with wal­nuts. This pasta is a tightrope walker, find­ing the art­ful bal­ance be­tween rich and light.

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