STOP, LOOK, GLISTEN
Nancy Rockett meets Stockholm-based Irish jewellery designer Michael O’Dwyer
Is that something in my eye or did a ray of light from a 2.8 carat diamond just disrupt my vision? In the Stockholm atelier of Irish jewellery designer Michael O’Dwyer, trays of coloured gems bedazzle and precious rings twinkle, eliciting the sort of coos usually reserved for professional firework displays. But then thrilling clients is all part of the day job for O’Dwyer and his ten staff, whose investment pieces are stocked in 18 European retailers.
His “calling” to fine jewellery started while working at Facet Jewellers in his Dun Laoghaire hometown. Unsure of his career prospects after completing a history of art degree at UCD, he was quickly inspired to study with the British Gemmological Association before applying for the prestigious Design and Crafts Council of Ireland’s goldsmithing course in Kilkenny. Only 12 students are admitted every two years – and, by his own admission, he was the weakest in the class.
“I had never done goldsmithing before. I couldn’t even hold a saw properly…” However, a combination of singular determination and a natural flair for materials had O’Dwyer up to speed, as each pupil followed traditional techniques using the most low-tech of smithing tools. If they could train their eyes with the most traditional instruments, they could craft any precious metal to the nearest micrometre. It was on this course that he met fellow student Ann Chapman, who, it transpired, lived on the same Kilkenny estate. The pair hit it off, with O’Dwyer introducing Chapman to his fellow rock climber friend Tim, who later became her husband. Serendipity segued into new opportunities for the goldsmith graduates, with O’Dwyer moving to Antwerp to work with the renowned microscopic diamond setter Alexander Sidorov; meanwhile, Ann returned to her native Dublin, where she became DesignYard’s general manager. There, she identified a gap in their market for high-quality engagement and wedding rings so commissioned an eight-piece collection from her old friend. Named the Stockholm rings, O’Dwyer’s pieces sold like hot fika and are still one of Stonechat’s bestsellers – Stonechat being Chapman’s Westbury Mall store, which she opened in 2009, the same year O’Dwyer set up his eponymous studio in Stockholm’s hip Södermalm neighbourhood. The pair continue to work together, with one new, exclusive-to-Stonechat piece shown to Ann for the first time during my studio visit.
Scandinavia is famous for its clean, detail-oriented design, which is perfectly matched by O’Dwyer’s expert eye and unwavering quality control. “The quintessential Michael O’Dwyer aesthetic would be described as attention to detail and carefully selected coloured gemstones,” he says, adding that, “both Celtic influences from Ireland and clean lines for Sweden inspire my designs.” He works with only a handful of gemstone suppliers, and uses Angolan and Russian diamonds and 100 per cent recycled gold. “Swedes are big into brand loyalty, so if you’re new, you really have to prove yourself. They will only buy something they trust, so if you make it in Sweden, you can make it in the rest of the world.” He says his first three years were slow as a result – but, 11 years on, he may or may not have A-list and royal clients (O’Dwyer is admirably discreet)…
After dripping with millions of kroner’s worth of his exquisite jewels, I leave his atelier not with mysterious stars in my eyes, but tourmaline, pink sapphires, tanzanite, green beryl, rhodolite garnet… and my own marcasite piece looking distinctly forlorn.