By Hook or by Crook
Leo O’ Cathsaigh on the cycles of life
The town of New Ross is situated below the point where the River Nore joins forces with the Barrow as it makes its way to the sea. A third river – the Suir – flows through the city of Waterford and joins the party to form a great estuary between Dunmore East and Hook Head. These three rivers, known locally as the Three Sisters, have shaped the landscape and defined the history of the southeast of Ireland. You don’t have to be a mariner to look at a map and appreciate the usefulness of this location to land ships and make trade or plunder. In the 9th and 10th centuries, there were numerous Viking raids taking advantage of the natural harbors and navigable rivers to wreak havoc among the locals. It was the Vikings who established the town of Waterford or Vadrefjord as they called it then. Subsequently, the Normans used the southeast as the gateway to Ireland when they famously landed at Bannow Strand near Baginbun. I remember the lines from my school days: “In 1171, at the creek of Baginbun, Ireland was lost and won”. The reference here was to the deal between the local king Dermot MacMurrough and Strongbow, the leader of the first group of Normans. For strategic reasons, Dermot invited Strongbow and his cohorts to come to Ireland. He even agreed to offer Strongbow the hand of his daughter, Aoife. Within a year MacMurrough had died and Strongbow invaded Dublin to become King of Leinster. So began hundreds of years of trouble regarding the Anglo presence in Ireland. Anyway, I’m telling you this as I journeyed there recently, cycling around the flatlands of the Hook with four others. At every turn there are reminders of stories of ancient times. Take the remarkable, lighthouse at its most southern tip – the oldest of its kind still in operation in the world. Not to mention Loftus
Hall, the most haunted house in Ireland. and Tintern Abbey home to Cistercian monks up until Henry the Eight and the Dissolution of the Monasteries. All of these are within a few miles of each other and each has a story to tell. You need to get there “by hook or by crook” – ever heard that phrase? Yes, it comes from these parts where Hook and the village of Crooke (on the other side of the bay) were possible landing points. Further up the inlet you’ll find the city of Waterford. Old and splendid with a long seafaring tradition. Imagine the scene in medieval times: ships from Europe and further afield tied up at the docks unloading barrels of wine for the monasteries and casks of silver for the lords. In return, wool and hides, products of the fertile land in the vicinity, loaded up to be shipped back to Britain, France, and Spain. There is no comparable location in Ireland to see the layers of history and the complex relationships that blurred the lines between foreigners, invader and trading partners. As much of Gaelic Ireland continued to live in relative isolation, the Southeast looked beyond our shores to trade in goods and exchange ideas. Over time the Normans integrated and improved the farming and economic practices of the area. Although they remained as a Protestant ascendancy, many identified closely with the project of an independent Ireland. The rebellion of 1798 was influenced in part by the revolutions in France and America and many of the leaders of the United Irishmen were of Norman heritage. The Normans also cherished the game of hurling – still today the game captures the soul of the Southeast. The game is played with passion and pride for local parishes, clubs and county.
“There is no comparable location in Ireland”
We arrived in New Ross in the early evening fresh from our adventures on the Hook Peninsula. Three things were needed to round off the day - good food, a great pub and an excellent night’s sleep. Each builds upon the other and there was nothing more satisfying than the perfect alignment of all three. Add to this we were treated the following morning to a magnificent full Irish breakfast. Brigid and her son Mark run Inishross House and it was one of the nicest and friendliest B&Bs I have experienced. The dining room, adorned with fine ornaments, china teapots, cups and saucers fit for an emperor, an assortment of bread and scones, all presented as a visual and culinary ensemble. Scattered about, occupying every flat surface were thank you cards from satisfied previous guests. Clearly Bridget has time for everyone and is
companion – a few rolls and another good look at us and then gone. “Are they playing with us” posed one of my fellow cyclists. Certainly they seemed as interested in us as we were in them. Locals assured us the river path runs all the way to Graiguenamanagh and we decided to use it - not least to avoid the steep hill. So we trundled our way, avoiding the tree roots and occasional stones but always with the brightness and splendor of the River Barrow at our side. It was a sensational experience and we arrived on a high into the beautiful town of Graiguenamanagh. The Southeast of Ireland, with the valleys of the three sister rivers, the Hook Peninsula and friendly people is a wonderful location to visit. I would recommend every visitor makes it part of
Kylemore Abbey in their itinerary. You can get there by road or rail or if you prefer to Connemara mountains, Ireland arrive by boat by hook or by crook!