Solo Travel
A ‘thank you’ to Dervla Murphy
Anational treasure, we hoped that she would travel forever and continue to regale us with her stories. Sadly, Dervla Murphy passed away on 22 May 2022 at the age of 90. There are so many of us solo travellers who continue to be inspired by her stories and her zest for life on the road, and dream of emulating her travel style.
In her descriptive writing you can feel dust blowing in deserts and smell spices in markets. Compelled by independence and stoicism, her travel adventures were always gripping with the perfect balance of personality and context of where she was. Whether you were an armchair traveller or out there travelling, she enthralled us with travels to India on a bicycle, in Ethiopia with a mule, or travels to Palestine.
By her own admission, her writing eventually became more political. However, it never lost its alure or appeal. Typically, Dervla travelled alone, unaided, and depended on the hospitality of local people. Solo travel has a compelling freedom and release at any stage of life.
In September 2015, I was working at University College, Cork, and one evening I went to Bandon Grammar School to where Dervla was being interviewed by Jasper Winn as part of the Bandon Arts Festival. I had read many of her books and I had heard much commentary on her being one of our foremost travel writers in Ireland.
At the end of the interview, the audience had the opportunity to ask questions. I asked Dervla who was the most interesting person she met while travelling? Somewhat naively I expected Dervla to identify one person. With straightforwardness and a smile, she reflected on many different interesting people that she had often fortuitously encountered and did not commit to identifying one person.
While this was testament to her skill to notice interesting people, and indeed situations in many of her travels and interactions, it also showed a broad perspective and an acknowledgement that when you travel many of the people you meet are interesting. I certainly found Dervla interesting to meet in person, and I was especially delighted when she signed a few books for me.
ON ANOTHER occasion, with searing sun beating down, I sat in the shade in Cavtat in Croatia. Breathing in the sweet smell of the pine trees that I was shading under, I reflected on the joy of travelling solo and how restorative it can be.
Through Voluntary Service International (VSI), I had been volunteering in a bear sanctuary in the Velebit mountains where accommodation was in a hay barn. Many great days were spent in the beauty of the mountains with an amazing international group collectively working at the bear sanctuary project.
After being immersed in the project, it was wonderful to travel solo to Mostar and eventually onto Dubrovnik and Cavtat.
Years later in Namibia, I found myself alone in Windhoek frequenting coffee shops and bookshops. Using it as a perfect place to unwind after a busy trip through Namibia from Cape Town, it consolidated and reiterated for me the joys and benefits of solo travel.
Analogous to Dervla not identifying the most interesting person she met on her travels, I am also evasive about answering the question of what is the most interesting country or place that I have been. Indeed, I feel that solo travel does not always have to involve visiting far-off places.
I try to remember my first solo trip and work out what age I was. Growing up on a farm in South Galway, it was inevitable that I presumably started to explore our garden and then venturing further out into the farm and the forest.
CYCLING ON the network of little roads in South Galway also led me to many new places to explore as a child. What started as little adventures in the garden, farm and forest as a child developed into exploring the world as an adult.
In the true spirit of solo travel, I recently headed to Lismore in Co. Waterford, homeplace of Dervla Murphy. Greeted by the view of the hillside gothic-style castle silhouetted against a January sky, as I approached Lismore from Cappoquin, I knew immediately that I would enjoy wandering and exploring Lismore.
Impressed by the architecture in the village and the slow pace of life on a frosty day, I eventually found myself in a coffee shop. Sitting by a tall window overlooking Lismore’s Millennium Park and spotting icicles on the fountain, I wondered what Dervla would make of the world now. A world that she had adventurously transversed and immersed herself in while travelling solo. Rest in peace Dervla and thank you for sharing your adventures.÷