I’ll take plenty more delicious food from Uno Mas

dishes. The deal from Aimsir even includes a tweezers, because you’re certainly going to need them when assembling your dinner.

No tweezers are required with Uno Mas. It’s all about superb raw materials, thoughtful cooking and cleverly deceptive simplicity. The hard work has been done for you and the rest is, frankly, as easy as falling off a log.

We poured ourselves a dry fino sherry and opened up the items collectively and modestly described as “nibbles”: salchichón Iberico de Bellota, thin slices of what most people think of as salame but made from the top grade of cured acornfed pork from the freest of freerange pigs, intense, tender, nutty and, yes, buttery. And there were stoned little manzanilla olives, a bright green and peppery

Arbequina olive oil and superb baguette, from the brilliant Le Levain Bakery, for dipping.

Our starter was centred on Buffalo burrata, the almost indecently creamier, most decadently delicious form of mozzarella, with supporting vocals, so to speak from sweet little cherry tomatoes, the small Italian Borettane onions pickled in balsamic vinegar, crunchy leaves and, unusually, a pesto made from wild garlic and macadamia nuts in place of the usual pine nuts. A very Summery dish, it reminded us of Mediterranean sunshine on a sharp Irish Spring evening: a carefully composed riot of elements ranging

from rich and fatty to crisp and pungent. Colourful too.

If anything, the main course was a Winter dish, a daube of beef that simply needed its lengthy cooking completed with 15 to 20 minutes in oven. The meat came in two large chunks, meltingly tender, bathed in a deep, dark gravy, with sultry tones of warm spices, rather than the hot sort. It was fortified, on serving, with a warming green peppercorn sauce.

The accompaniments were, like the starter, carefully composed.

Spears of white sprouting broccoli and grilled king oyster mushrooms just needed finishing in butter; a slice - more of an ingot, really - of finely leaved dauphinoise potato - was crisped on the pan and finished briefly in the oven. The latter, appearing on the menu as containing horseradish - a nice touch - could have done with a heavier dose, but it was fine as it was. A little broccoli purée was as smooth as silk and as luminously verdant as a leprechaun’s britches.

Pastel de tres leches - literally cake of three milks - is generally a very sweet affair that has been compared - not entirely fairly - to Italy’s tiramisù. The “leches” are evaporated milk, sweetened condensed milk and cream. Usually the emphasis is on sweetness and richness rather than delicacy but not at Uno Mas.

Our two little cakes were perfectly formed: sweet but not too sweet, fabulously creamy and based on a most delicate sponge. Maybe I’ve led a sheltered existence, but this was certainly the best version of it that I’ve tasted.

At lunch next day we enjoyed Uno Mas’s trademark onion and potato tortilla, presented as a mix in a big, and cooked by us in the same kind of pan as they use in the restaurant. It was fabulous and, critically, still liquid in the centre, just one little reminder reminder of the things we love about this very special restaurant.

The set menu for two is €68 and for one €34,, and there’s no arguing with that. The wines offer great value and many of them would be very hard to come by elsewhere.

Not only does Uno Mas dish up meal boxes but also some glorious Spanish delicacies, from olives and tinned seafood to charcuterie, smoked almonds, olive oil and sherry vinegar.

€11.50, DUNNES STORES This is a gloriously perfumed white wine from Corbières in Languedoc, almost certainly Grenache Blanc but with something else in the blend. The label doesn’t give much away! Quite ripe, peachy and fairly soft. Delightfully different.