DOMAINE MAREY HAUTES CôTES DE NUITS 2019

€14.99, LIDL

It’s a challenge to find a Pinot Noir from Burgundy for €20 or less and most are barely drinkable. But this is a lovely, simple example with good fruit and real varietal character. Grab it now, because it won’t be there for long.

This is peak marmalade season as the bitter Seville oranges needed to make it are right in season. If you have ever been to Seville, where orange trees line the streets, you will understand why they plant inedible oranges rather than sweet ones. Inedible, that is, until mixed with a great deal of sugar whereupon you get a kind of orange jam. The very