TASTEBUD TIP

first marmalades were based on the quince preserve, membrillo, that is still made in Spain: a paste so thick that it sets as a kind of jelly that you can slice with a knife. The spreadable version was invented when someone, probably Scottish, discovered that a spreading consistency could be achieved if you mix the fruit and sugar with a great deal of water. It’s possible that Mr Keiller of Dundee was the first to exploit this discovery commercially in the early 19th