Weekend BITES
THIS WEEK I’LL BE EATING...
… Irish stew because of the weekend that’s in it. It’s also one of my favourite dishes, cooked very simply. Ideally I’ll use neck of lamb, onions, carrots, potatoes, thyme, salt and pepper. No garlic, for once. I’ll even simmer some lamb bones – free from your butcher if you ask nicely – to make a proper stock. I’ll hold back on the spuds, cut into large chunks, until the last 45 minutes of slow, gentle cooking. That way they will be just done, and can be mashed into stew as thickening. At least, that’s how I eat it.. with a glass of red Bordeaux.
CLARKES HARK BACK
The big restaurant news this week is that Derry and Sallyanne Clarke, formerly of the much missed L’Écrivain, are back in harness again, this time in The Club at Goff’s in Co Kildare, where James Sheridan, formerly of Canteen, is head chef. ‘Clean, simple, stylish and sophisticated food’ is promised. ‘Classical dishes with modern influences draw on the abundance of fresh, homegrown ingredients that are available right on our doorstep here in Co Kildare,’ according to this newly opened hotel. There are no menus online as yet but I’ve no doubt they will be good. See clubhotel.ie.
SMOKING NEW IDEA
Thom Lawson, who used to manage the first incarnation of London’s Smoking Goat and who created the excellent pasta restaurant Sprezzatura, has just opened a French bistro in Rathmines, called Flâneur. He promises ‘no food porn’ and lots of simple classics like coquilles Saint Jacques, tournedos Rossini, duck rillettes and even – bravely, given what the health inspectors are like – steak tartare. There’s a daily special at €14.95, served from noon until 10pm. Full website coming soon at flaneur.ie.
GIN-CREDIBLE GIFT
I was amused to get a press release suggesting gin as the perfect gift for Mother’s Day. Now, I’ve no doubt lots of mums would like a bottle of gin – and I’d strongly recommend Blackwater No.5,
Dingle or the Aldi exclusive,
Boyle’s – but I can’t help recalling that this now revered spirit used to be called mother’s ruin! All of the wines I’m recommending this week are highly suitable for mothers, especially ones who rebel against the idea that all women just adore prosecco!
They are good for fathers too.