HAS FASHION NOT MOVED ON?
The feature on page 24 of today’s issue is so disheartening. It seems that fashion brands have halted the move towards body neutrality on the catwalk and are back to using superthin models to showcase their latest looks. The article is written by Farrah Storr, who was editing Cosmopolitan when it ran Tess Holliday on the cover five years ago, sparking a global debate. I remember so well the day it was revealed on social media, a couple of days before its publication. My first impression was, wow, what a stunning cover. It catches your attention, it opens up a conversation and it publicises the subject’s latest work. As an editor, it ticks all the boxes for both the magazine and the subject – the ideal scenario. Then the conversation took a turn that I’m not sure any editor wants to be a part of. The outright fatphobia that took over every debate about it was souldestroying. Wrapped in ‘concerns’ about Tess’s health, it was clear that people simply didn’t want bigger women to be given this kind of platform. In the five years since, I thought that we’d moved on. The success of singer Lizzo and her amazing body positivity movement is so inspiring. But as Farrah points out, the fashion industry seems to have gone backwards in this regard. A multi-billion euro industry, one of the biggest in the world, I find it so difficult to understand why those in fashion circles want to limit who they cater to. There is space in the realm for every colour, creed and shape. There is space for every age, style and fad. So why on earth would you limit your target audience in such a way? On the flip side, Farrah also reveals that the issue with Tess in it sold fewer copies than those with reality TV stars on the cover, so she questions if it really achieved progress. I hope she realises that anything that opens up the conversation is a step in the right direction. I still salute it as one of my favourite ever magazine covers and believe that it has instigated change.
I hope you’ll join me in welcoming our new columnist Judith Cuffe, who can be found on page 8 of today’s issue. I have been speaking about Judith a bit in this column over the past few months as she experienced a heartbreaking start to the year. The chats we’ve had since showed me that, much like me, Judith processes many of the things in her life best by writing about them. Her raw outpourings are equal parts sad and inspiring, and I’m sure many of you will find parallels in her journey and yours. We’re delighted to have her on the team.
Enjoy the issue.