Complexion
Alice Robertson consults YOU’s panel of dermatological experts on how to treat the seven most common skincare worries
Sadly, skin issues don’t stop after puberty, and as we age we face new problems. Our team of expert advisers (see right) gives the lowdown on how to tackle them – and avoid making things worse.
FINE LINES AND WRINKLES
The number-one preventative is daily SPF. As Dr Sturnham notes: ‘Eighty per cent of premature ageing is caused by UV damage.’ But bear in mind the following measures.
DO… Know your retinal from your retinol
Both are retinoids – vitamin A derivatives – that switch on your skin’s collagen production and control as many as 3,000 genes in your skin. But, Dr Sommerlad says, most effective is retinal. It’s very well tolerated – even for those with sensitive skin. Apply in the evening, twice a week to start with, until you know your tolerance. Everyone over the age of 30 should be using them.
DON’T… Delay
Dr Williams’s adage? ‘Prevention and early intervention!’ Which means don’t wait until discreet lines turn deep and static.
DO… Eat your ‘oranges’
Rather than your greens, Dr Murad’s tip is to eat oranges, carrots and sweet potatoes. They’re packed with vitamins A and C, which both help restore damaged collagen – responsible for keeping your skin looking plump.
Budget beauty pick AHC Youth Focus Pro Retinal Emulsion, €25.95, lookfantastic.ie
POST-MENOPAUSAL DRYNESS
Oestrogen levels begin to decline once you’re about 40 and, with that, so does skin’s collagen production. Typically, about 30 per cent of your collagen is lost in the initial years of the menopause, says Heather Wish, which can leave your skin dry, slack and thin. Here’s what to do to hold on to your suppleness.
DO… Have a ‘sandwich’
A moisture sandwich, that is. Dr Ukeleghe recommends layering your hydrating products for maximum results. The rule of thumb is to apply products in order of thickness, from lightest to heaviest. Begin with a hydrating mist before moving on to your hyaluronic serum, moisturiser and, if you like, an oil.
DON’T… Double-cleanse
Despite what you may have heard, Dr Bunting recommends eliminating from your routine everything that’s depleting your skin barrier. That includes double-cleansing (‘Once is enough!’) and physical exfoliants, including flannels.
DO… Build up your barrier
Aim for products containing ceramides, niacinamide and probiotics – these help to restore the skin barrier, which in turn aids moisture retention, fending off flaky and/or irritated skin.
Budget beauty pick Dermatica Ceramide & Peptide Moisturiser, €18, dermatica.com
HYPERPIGMENTATION
Dr Sturnham sees pigmentation as a form of protection – when melanocyte cells sense an attack (from, say, UV light) they ‘shoot up “umbrellas” of melanin pigment to shield the skin’s DNA from damage’. But it can also be triggered by hormones (pregnancy and contraceptive pills) and ageing. Either way, there are routes our experts agreed on.
DO… Use iron, zinc and titanium dioxide
Mineral sunscreens contain these, screening skin from visible light, meaning enhanced protection for any patches of pigmentation. Heather Wish explains: ‘If you’re not willing to commit to applying a sunscreen rated SPF30 or greater, don’t bother treating dark spots.’
DON’T… Think a one-off treatment will fix it
This is a chronic skin condition. Maintenance is key. Easing dark spots takes time, perhaps up to 12 weeks of twice daily application.
DO… Try vitamin C
Before you get to retinols, acids and lasers, try the humble vit C. It’s essential for making the inhibitors that block those ‘melanin umbrellas’ in the top layer of your skin and works particularly well when combined with niacinamide and ferulic acid. Choose one with a minimum strength of ten per cent.
Budget beauty pick Altruist Face Fluid SPF30, €9.60, altruistsun.com
NECK AND CHEST CREASES
Even those of us with a militant skincare routine neglect neck and décolletage. It’s one of the most ageing mistakes you can make and results in a turkey neck wobbling below a well-cared-for face.
DO… Cover all bases
Dr Williams’s mantra is ‘hairline to nipple line’ – and she pleads with you not to forget the backs of your hands!
DON’T… Over-apply
According to Dr Sommerlad, topical retinoids can help smooth out fine lines here, but use very low concentrations as you’re covering a larger surface area.
Budget beauty pick
The Ordinary Retinol 0.2% in Squalane, €8.40, spacenk.com
EYE BAGS
Be they purple or puffy, dark or distended, nobody wants them.
DO… Reduce your salt intake
Aside from genetics, under-eye puffiness is often a result of what we eat. Dr Bunting notes that going easy on the amount of salt you consume can make a big difference. The skin around your eyes is much thinner than on the rest of your face, so no wonder the bloating post-salt binge is crystal clear. The same goes for booze.
DON’T… Think all eye creams will help
People assume an eye cream might improve matters, if only you could find the right one. Not necessarily so, says
Dr Ukeleghe, who believes we need to manage expectations.
‘If you have eye bags due to bulging or shifting of fat pads, an eye product isn’t going to do anything.’
But if your puffy eyes come from fluid retention, then ice rollers, gua sha or anything cold can help. Since caffeine is a diuretic, eye creams containing it may also be effective – hence the time-honoured practice of slapping on used tea bags. However, Dr Bunting comments, it won’t solve a true eye bag.
Budget beauty pick Nurse Jamie SuperCryo Massaging Orb, €15.80, cultbeauty.com
THREAD VEINS
These are small blood vessels in the skin’s dermis (lower layer) that have become dilated and so are visible on the surface. They can be linked to the inflammatory condition rosacea, but can also be down to overdoing it on physical exfoliation.
DON’T… Lose sleep over them
That’s it. That’s the advice. Nothing more. Thread veins are normal and everyone has them. Concealer can easily cover them if you’re worried.
DON’T… Think there’s a magic potion out there
As every single expert we’ve spoken to on thread veins has agreed, it’s a lie.
DO… Visit a doctor if you’re really that bothered
Only lasers will zap them permanently. However, Dr Sommerlad warns, the number of treatments required is dependent on how many thread veins you have. To help minimise their recurrence consult a dermatologist who can advise whether your lifestyle is a contributing factor.
JOWLS AND DROOPING
Jowls often deteriorate due to a loss of volume and elasticity from the mid-face rather than just the jawline, so to help, start there. Unfortunately there are very few options for jowls.
DON’T… Look for a miracle cure
Retinoids can boost collagen, but it’s the loss of muscle and bone density that really has an effect. A cream can only do so much. Dermal fillers can help restore volume, radiofrequency and ultrasound therapy can tighten plus stimulate collagen production, but they are best used in tandem.