CILBIR (TURKISH EGGS)

It’s by no means the only type of egg dish in Turkey, however cilbir (pronounced ‘churl-burr’) has become known to many as ‘Turkish eggs’, and is universally loved. The combination of tangy, slightly fiery yogurt (from the raw garlic), nutty, citrussy, pepperlicked butter and smooth poached eggs is at once comforting and homely, yet also transportive and invigorating.

SERVES 2

H 40g butter

H generous ½ tsp pul biber (aleppo pepper flakes)

H ¼ tsp sweet smoked paprika

H 4 eggs

H ½ tbsp white wine vinegar

H 140g full-fat greek- or turkish-style yogurt

H generous pinch flaky sea salt

H 1 small clove garlic, minced

H 1 tbsp picked dill fronds

H pitta, other flatbread or toasted sourdough to serve

1 Warm the butter in a small saucepan over a medium heat until it melts and froths. When that frothing suddenly becalms (a non-frothing circle will grow from the centre outwards) and the butter smells unmistakably nutty, turn off the heat, add the pepper flakes and the paprika, stir and set to one side.

2 Meanwhile, poach your eggs, two at a time. Fill a medium saucepan with water to a depth of 10cm or so. Bring to a confident simmer, then reduce so the water is near simmering (producing a regular stream of fine bubbles – it wouldn’t take much more heat to generate a rolling boil). Add ½ tablespoon of the white wine vinegar.

3 Break each egg into a small, shallow bowl or ramekin (so you can lower it into the water from the shortest height possible, minimising dispersal of whites).

4 Before lowering the egg, swirl the handle of a wooden spoon in rapid circles to create a vortex. With the bowl virtually touching the water, tip the egg into the centre. Swirl the spoon handle around the edge of the pan to keep the vortex going. After 10 seconds or so, add another egg.

5 It takes 2½-3 minutes for the whites to become opaque and firm. During that time, pay attention to the water temperature (small bubbles, nothing more). Between 30 and 90 seconds, use a slotted spoon to encourage the albumen to stay close to the eggs.

6 Line a plate or shallow bowl with a piece of kitchen paper or absorbent cloth. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the eggs from the saucepan to the plate to soak up excess water.

7 Poach the final two eggs.

8 While the eggs are cooking, mix together the yogurt, salt and garlic.

9 Divide the yogurt between two shallow bowls. Add the eggs, spoon over the molten butter and scatter with plenty of dill. You could add a pinch more of the pepper flakes, if you wish.

10 Serve with the pitta, other flatbread or toasted sourdough.