A mountain of food in Mont Blanc for the gastronomes
IT’S been a long time since a holiday in the Alps means dining exclusively on fondue and tartiflette but one area in particular, the Savoie Mont Blanc region, has seen a gastronomic boom resulting in a snowstorm of Michelin awards; 33 of its restaurants now carry at least one star.
With more than 100 ski resorts – including Chamonix Mont Blanc, Meribel and Val D’Isere – Savoie Mont Blanc is one of the hip winter sports destinations and now foodies have a reason to visit too.
Here Frankie Mullin tells us of ten places not to miss.
1 CHAMBÉRY MARKET
Chambéry, capital of the Savoie region, is a lively, walkable city, full of museums, shops, restaurants and bars which are reached through a maze of narrow alleys. On Saturday mornings, head to the market to drink coffee and buy local meats, cheeses, fruit and vegetables. Family-run fromager, Laiterie des Marches, is your place for a huge selection of cheese, some of which – like the Farou and Colombier des Aillons – are made in Chambéry.
The market is held on Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday mornings but the main market is on Saturday. Les Halles, Place de Genève.
2 WINE TASTING
The vineyards of Savoie Mont Blanc cover more than 2,000 hectares and are accessible from major tourist destinations such as Chambéry, Aix-les-Bains, Evian and Annecy.
In the summer, you can explore by car, bike or hot air balloon with outdoor wine-tasting sessions available from some vineyards.
In winter, stay cosy in O Vin Coeur, a new wine bar and shop in Le Grand-Bornand Chinaillon, near Lake Annecy. Another spot is Vin…Quand Tu Veux in La Clusaz, offering more than 320 different wines and liquors to sit and taste around a big wooden table
3 LE CARRÉ DES SENS, CHAMBÉRY
Opened in 2014, Le Carré des Sen serves creative, modern cuisine and the constantly changing menu makes use of local ingredients in unexpected ways.
Expect finely-sliced carpaccio of local fish, dishes flavoured with unusual spices and a carefully chosen wine list. Chef Julien Rorato recently left his position as head of the kitchens at the Restaurant Comptoir du Lac in the four-star Hotel Clos Marcel, Lake Annecy, to strike out alone in Chambéry.
Plat du jour €13/€31 for 3 courses; http://carredessens-chambery.com.
4 L’ATELIER, CHAMBÉRY
In the centre of Chambéry, l’Atelier serves contemporary cuisine and tapas.
Head here for gastro delicacies such as asparagus with parmesan cheese, truffles and foie gras or rabbit stuffed with herbs and mushrooms and creamy polenta. The lunch menu is particularly affordable.
Set menus from €17 to €40; www. atelier-chambery.com
5 LE BÂTEAU IVRE, BOURGET
The first thing you’ll notice at Le Bâteau Ivre (the Drunken Boat) is the stunning location.
The restaurant is part of the grand old Hotel Ombremont and, as you eat, you’ll looks out over the glistening, mountain-flanked waters of Lake Bourget.
Le Bâteau Ivre has two Michelin stars and the surrounding village, Bourget, home to just 4000 residents, has the most Michelin starred restaurants per capita in Europe.
Expect wildly creative, delicious menus, often inspired by the surrounding woodland and lake; think freshly caught Fera fish, pigeon and flavours of pine. Lunch menus is €36 for 3 courses (except on Sundays), dinner is €57 for 3 courses; www.hotel-ombremont.com
6 L’ATELIER D’EDMOND, VAL D’ISÈRE
Michelin-starred restaurant l’Atelier d’Edmond in Val d’Isère sits at the bottom of the FornetPissaillas slopes, 2km from the resort’s centre.
Now open both summer and winter, Benoît Vidal has created an affordable bistro-style menu for lunch as an alternative to the pricier dinner a la carte.
Dishes are rich and interesting; try the smoked pigeon with cocoa beans or roast venison with hibiscus flower.
Lunch time bistro menu from €21, evening a la carte from €80; www. atelier-edmond.com.
7 MAISON DE FAMILLE DES 5 FRÈRES, VAL D’ISÈRE
Owned by an old Val d’Isère family, Maison de Famille des 5 Frères opened in December 2013 and manages to blend luxury with the feeling of staying in someone’s home.
The restaurant, La Table d’Yvonne, is open to non-guests and serves homemade fare. Children are not just tolerated but welcome here and the menus are tailored accordingly.
A family meal for five people is €90; www.les5freres.com
8 LE BISTROT DU MORGANE, CHAMONIX
Le Bistrot du Morgane in Chamonix is France’s cheapest Michelin-starred restaurant. The food is locally sourced, seasonal and creative.
Regional products come from the Chamonix valley and, further afield, from Switzerland’s Valais and Val d’Aosta regions.
Lunch time menu from €20, in the evening three courses are €55; http://www.morganehotel-chamonix.com/en/chamonix-restaurant
9 FLOCONS DE SEL, MEGÈVE
After running the kitchens in Claridge’s, London, chef Emmanuel Renaut returned to France to pursue his own venture.
The result, double-Michelin starred Flocons de Sel, is known for its inspired use of local delicacies such as wood pigeon, whitefish from the lake and Savoie cheeses.
Megève artist Pierre Margara, has said of Renaut’s creations: ‘His cuisine is both highly flavoured and delicate at the same time, just like our mountains - there are gently rolling hills and then the glorious surprise of a soaring peak’.
Seven-course lunch menu are €95, 10-course dinner menus are €200; http://www.floconsdesel.com/ uk/flocons-de-sel-megeve-officialsite.php
10 LA BOUSSOLE, SEVRIER, LAC D’ANNECY
The Marque Savoie label is awarded to restaurants that offer Savoie specialties such as crozet with Reblochon, Diot sausages with Gamay Savoie wine or tartare of local fish.
There are just nine restaurants with the Marque Savoie label and La Boussole is one. With panoramic views of Lake Annecy and Mount Veyrier, sit on the terrace. Don’t miss the Savoie cheeses. Accompanied by wine, of course.
Three-course gourmet menu from €37.50; http://www.hotelbeauregard.com/restaurantannecy/74-la-boussole_92-145.aspx
Get more info: savoie-montblanc.com, chambery-tourisme. com or valdisere.com.