Marvellous Marbs
This is the real Marbella... despite what you might see in TOWIE
BECOMING the setting for a popular TV show or film can be a huge tourist boon for an area. The North is reaping the rewards of Game of Thrones, while New Zealand has become a haven for Lord of the Rings fans.
The popularity of the TV show The Only Way is Essex may not have visitors flocking to Marbella, as the stars of the programme do several times a year, but it has certainly elevated the area in viewers’ consciousness.
I’ve actually never seen an episode, but my addiciton to showbiz websites means I’m aware of the characters and their frequent forays to the Spanish coast. Their addiction to looking their best for the holidays has even given rise to the popular catchphrase, ‘no carbs before Marbs’.
It had given me a certain expectation of what I’d see here – pool parties with world-renowned DJs and girls teetering around in designer bikinis and towering wedges; packed VIP areas in nightclubs with €350 bottles of vodka and wall-to-wall Christian Louboutins; roads filled with high-end convertible sports cars, engines roaring, drivers posing.
I couldn’t have been more wrong. As I stroll through the cobbled streets of Orange Square, browsing tiny boutiques and beautiful restaurants, there isn’t a spray tan or backcombed hairdo in sight.
The Old Town is a beautiful Arab-walled area, with narrow streets flanked by local businesses and enticing little shops with pretty souvenirs and homemade clothing. Small restaurants are dotted throughout, offering tapas and a jug of Sangria.
At the heart of it is Orange Square, Plaza de los Naranjos, which dates back to 1485, when the Christians took it from the Moors. It features the town hall, the old governor’s house and the Chapel of Santiago. Ornate plant pots are filled with brightly coloured flowers and the orange trees that give the square its name. At its centre is a bust of King Juan Carlos II.
Our arrival on a beautiful Saturday evening is met by the bells of Templo de Dios, the Chapel of St John of God, which is heralding the exit of a sea of worshippers. A throng of well-dressed, chatty natives spill out the door into the square, with children running around excitedly as the adults catch up with the gossip.
When everyone has left the 16th-century building, we chance a look inside. Stunning ornate carvings on the entrance door are only a taste of what’s to come, as lavish gold-encased portraits, a stunning altar and painstakingly precise statues dominate.
Having enjoyed the tranquility of the Templo, we make our way to Alameda Park, which features a beautiful water fountain and traditional Spanish blue chairs to take the weight off and enjoy a bit of people-watching.
The promenade is another perfect location for this activity and as it’s the home of our hotel, the adults-only Amare Beach Hotel, we indulge in a lot it while there. The name comes from the words Amor and Mar, love and sea – the perfect description for what it offers from its vista right between the hotel’s pool and beach bar.
Offering everything from highquality food, a beautiful pool area with cushioned sunbeds and a terrace with spectacular views, it’s actually hard to leave. The entertainment on offer is also of a very high quality – we’re greeted by the dulcet tones of an Il Divo tribute act. We see a poster for a DJ at the beach bar and, while a little apprehensive that this may be our TOWIE moment, we needn’t have worried – the laidback soul vibe of the tunes alongside a house cocktail is the perfect way to watch the sun set.
Also on offer are complimentary bikes, which can be used to cycle up to the Old Town or on up the coast to Puerto Banus. We opt for the latter and follow the prom from our hotel all the way up to its bigger, brasher neighbour – the terrain is flat but it’s about an hour away so bring water and stop for an ice-cream along the way, you’ve earned it.
As we arrive into the harbour, it’s more like the Marbella I’d imagined. Yachts range from small, dainty fishing vessels to huge, millionaires’ playground-style behemoths. Sports cars roar around the tiny streets. Designer shops stand tall beside petite boutiques, and there’s much more teetering going on here.
We spend an afternoon strolling around the port, ogling Ferraris and looking longingly in the windows of Gucci and Prada. Having enjoyed high temperatures all day, we opt to take the ferry back to enjoy the evening sun, a €13 one-way fare with coastal views.
Back at the hotel, we hit the spa. The hydrotherapy pool is a fabulous way to unwind and ease tired bones, while the sauna and relaxation areas are perfect for freeing the mind of any worries.
That evening, we head to the Michelin-starred Messina restaurant, next door to the hotel which can be included in any packages. Featuring Spanish, South American and Asian cuisine, the prices are incredibly reasonable.
The tasting menu is €62 per person and includes dishes such as belly of tuna with parmesan cheese, Malaga baby goat with creamy cheese and onions and peppermint and verdejo wine. An a la carte menu is also available.
Back to the hotel and we make our way to the Belvue rooftop bar, which has amazing views over the prom. Small fires and soft blankets mean it’s accessible all year round, and well worth a visit for its exquisite cocktails.
As the DJ plays mellow, chilled vibes in the corner, I kick off my heels and relax into the real Marbella — carbs and all.