Prince town
A stunning lakeland, a foodie or shopping haven? Yes it’s all those things all right, but Minneapolis will always be best known as...
ACITY of ten thousand lakes and exquisite skyscrapers and a melt-ing pot of worldclass dining, but most of all Minneapolis is the keeper of one of music royalty’s greatest legacies.
Minneapolis is fast becoming one of the hottest city break destinations in the world with a booming food scene and plenty to do in between indulging in hearty Midwest fare and local craft beer.
And, above all, there’s Prince and Paisley Park, but I’ll get to that. Let me take you around the rest of Minneapolis first.
Musical influences are all around you in this town. Hop across the pond and head to the new New York: a buzzing, friendly hive of music, art and history that will keep your days busy and your nights late.
From the dark corners of notorious jazz clubs and fancy steakhouses of downtown (home to some 40,000 residents, part of 392,000 in greater MPLS), to the museum-filled university district and the famous suburb that houses Prince’s famous house-cum-compound and now museum, your dollar will stretch oodles further than in other major US cities and you’ll be greeted with less of a barge and more of a hug and a high five.
JUMP on the light rail from the airport when you arrive and glimpse places like Minnehaha to get to Downtown Central and the first thing you’ll see stepping off the light rail is a giant mural of Bob Dylan, staring down at you near Nicollet Avenue and Mall. Minesota may only have the same population as Ireland (it is nearly three times bigger) but it punches above its weight musically with two of the biggest icons in music... Dylan (or Zimmerman) was born in the Lake Superior port town of Duluth.
Dotted around Minneapolis are an abundance of gorgeous lakes where you can take boat rides or water ski and swim in the right season. Cedar and Calhoun are beautiful.
After years of being somewhat cast in the shadows of the likes of NYC and Chicago, the Minnesotan city (one half of the Twin Cities – the other being the adjacent St Paul) lays claim to some of the States’ most highly invested-in sports stadiums and art museums such as the Minnesota Vikings’ homeground, the U.S Bank Stadium, and the revered contemporary art museum The Walker.
The latter has just this month reopened. The newly restored Sculpture Garden is a must-see.
Or you can shop till you drop at the US’s largest shopping centre,
the Mall of America - which even has its own newly appointed poet-in-residence.
But what makes this city so special for me is the openness, the expanse of the streets, the warehouse buildings that are being turned into trendy cafes and hip hotels, many of which have a view of one of Minneapolis’ vast waters.
This is a city in which you can really relax and breathe, all the while taking in a vibrant energy of artistic and artisan growth.
A lot of artists, musicians and small businesses have set up studio here due to the lower rental costs and wealth of opportunity the city’s location gives. So that’s art, museums, live music, swimming, sailing, whiskey, craft beer – and everything topped off with a shedload of cheese and maple syrup: something surely no intrepid city breaker can find fault with. Visit walkerart.org; mallofamerica.com; minneapolis. org.
PARTY LIKE IT’S 1999
MINNEAPOLIS has one striking feature you can’t, no, mustn’t escape.
Minneapolis was the lifelong home to Prince who was cruelly taken from us last year, and that legacy lives on in the streets.
The appropriately named Captain Randy (I’m sure Prince would approve) is a lively and hilarious guide who will show you Prince’s old haunts on his bus tour.
En route to Paisley Park, stock up on vinyl at Prince’s old favour- ite record shop, Electric Fetus and check out the famous old Capri Theater where he played his first show.
You might even find an amazing young gospel choir going through their rehearsals.
At your final destination, you can experience enlightening personal tours of Prince’s astonishing vault of costumes and instruments, an enormous sound stage and much more in his sprawling futuristic-looking glimmering white home in Chanhassen.
Prince would lay impromptu public concerts both at his home and in town, so pay your respects with a night of dancing.
After dark, head for drinks at the Foshay and any of the fantastic dive bars along Hennepin, before letting your hair down at First Avenue, the still-poppin’ since 1970 danceteria where Purple Rain was filmed and where all ages, sexes and colours come together to get loose on the dance floor.
For a more sophisticated affair, reserve a table at Dakota Jazz Club where Prince was seen watching a band on his penultimate night alive. A table remains reserved for him with a bunch of lilacs. See princethetour.com; electricfetus.com; officialpaisleypark.com; http://first-avenue. com/; dakotacooks.com
COMFORT FOOD
You’ll notice a lot of hearty, beautiful, locally-sourced produced on your table at dinner (I’d especially recommended brunch).
Enjoy Friday Fish Fry at Red Stag Supperclub, or sample their breakfast corned beef hash and sweet potato pancakes.
Get your Irish fix early with a Wake Up Beer: stout with a shot of espresso. Another great dining spot is the Oscar Wilde-themed Wilde Roast Cafe (ergo decorated with peacock wallpaper).
For dinner, nothing beats Murray’s, stunning classic downtown steakhouse to the stars, complete with cosy booths, heavy silver cutlery and slick but friendly family-run service since 1946.
Order their garlic toast, orange seared scallops, fillet medium rare with spinach and potatoes and a slither of their family recipe raspberry pie. Wash down with a dry martini, a Malbec and a house port. See redstagsupperclub.com; wildecafe.com; murraysrestaurant.com
10,000 ZZZZZS
Chic but with an unpretentious Midwestern edge, book a suite at the brand new AC Marriott Downtown.
Complete with a slick, light, airy lobby filled with coffee table books and well-stocked bar tended to by a dapper tuxedoed mixologist – and floor to ceiling glass windows, huge flatscreens and rainforest showers in every bedroom (plus a fully-equipped gym) you’ll be impressed.
Or try Hewing Hotel, without doubt the best boutique lodgings in the North Loop, one the city’s fastest-developing neighbourhoods. It has a more Scandinavian design-led aesthetic. The exposed brick and timber interiors make this a traditionalfeeling stay.
You can ride their custom made bikes around town and the hotel is dog friendly.
Try www.marriott.com or www. hewinghotel.com.