A real Step up
IT’S a sleepy backwater nestled in the picturesque valley of the River Barrow which isn’t typically known as a tourist destination. But the tranquillity and unspoiled beauty is what makes a visit to the boutique Step House Hotel in Borris, Co. Carlow so special to banish away the stresses of the daily grind.
Myself and a companion set off from Dublin down the M9 and arrived at our home away from home in 90 minutes, with a greeting akin to that of a mother awaiting a long-overdue visit from a gaggle of children.
The warmth of the reception doesn’t distract from the sheer elegance of the lobby’s wrought iron staircase, or the decor of the guest rooms with their stunning antique furniture and king-size beds.
And it’s apparent that the dayto-day running of the hotel is very much a labour of love for proprietors James and Cáit Coady who are on hand to ensure their guests have a pleasant stay.
Cait has combined her love and a keen eye for style to oversee the interior design of the hotel and restaurants, while her daughter Aisleen runs the sales and marketing aspect of the business.
And downstairs in the fabulous Cellar restaurant, Cait’s son , the talented Head Chef Alan Foley is busy creating culinary masterpieces produced with the best locally sourced ingredients.
The talented young chef, formerly of Peacock Alley, Sheen Falls Lodge and Chapter One, took time out of his day to give us a quick cookery demonstration, effortlessly providing us with samples of delectable treats served on the dinner menu that day.
THE chef lives and breathes food, and has a philosophy of using the best local ingredients, organic where possible, in his classical and sophisticated cooking.
Creating thoughtful and elegant menus with quality ingredients, Alan’s delicious food is served in the 1808 bar located in the hotel and the cosy and atmospheric Cellar restaurant.
He also cooks up a storm for the many weddings which take place in the hotel’s opulent ballroom which opens onto the landscaped garden is at the heart of the Step House Hotel.
The Cellar restaurant is located in the kitchens of the original old house, a series of interconnected rooms with archways and vaulted ceilings, with a handsome modern bar, and doors out into the pretty gardens
The Hotel’s 1808 bar is named after the year the building was established and its polished brass, burnished mahogany and open fire provides a cosy atmosphere where one could easily whittle away the hours.
The luxurious bedrooms at Step House Hotel boast orginial Georgian features, designed in a sweeping curve allowing panoramic views of the rolling countryside as it rises to meet Mount Leinster.
Some rooms feature terraces, others with Juliet balconies and many with sublime sweeping views of the neighbouring countryside with Mount Leinster and the Blackstairs Mountains to the east, and the Barrow Valley to the West.
We retired to our stunning room on the third floor to freshen up before being treated to drinks and three-course dinner in the Cellar Restaurant cooked by Alan and his talented team.
With a selection of food sourced from local butchers and neighbouring farmers, there was plenty of food envy and sideways glances as our starters arrived.
I opted for pickled and charredlime caught mackerel served with a cucumber chutney, seaweed, yuzu and sesame tuile which Alan had showed us how to prepare earlier that afternoon.
Next up was the Fillet of Irish Beef which was cooked mediumrare to perfection and left little room for the irresistible desert offerings on the menu.
The beef was served with a parsley puree, Bone Marrow Crust and confit of Artichoke. An Argentinian Malbec served at just above room temperature and with its chocolate, velvety rich tones, was the perfect accompaniment to the evening’s meal.
At this point I could have foregone desert, but the apple and elderberry tarte tatin and treacle ice-cream proved too good to resist and was worth the 15minute preparation time.
Before we prepared to sink a deep sleep as a result of our respective food comas, we decided to have a nightcap in the 1808 bar beside the roaring fire and lively atmosphere.
And Mr Coady and daughterin-law Aisling were on hand to make sure we were enjoying ourselves and give us a quick history lesson of the town of Borris and the origins of the Stephouse Hotel.
Many of the buildings were constructed using granite which gives the town its nickname ‘Granite town’, featuring low front walls, distinctive gateposts, gabled windows and Tudor-style chimneys.
The Step House was built in the 1830s by the McMorrough Kavanagh family though the date ‘1808’ over the arch testifies to an earlier building.
Just across from the Step House – and well worth a visit – is Borris House, one of a few Irish estates that can trace its history back to the royal families of ancient Ireland.
Set in over 650 acres of walled private park and ancient oak woodlands, Borris House retains its place as the centrepiece of the village. Seat of the McMurrough Kavanagh family, whose ancestors have lived on the site since the 15th century, it is still occupied by the family for whom it was built.
The following morning we were treated to the most delicious full Irish breakfast, cooked lovingly by James Coady for all guests staying in the hotel. And there was plenty of local attractions to visit before we set off for home later that day feeling refreshed and revived.
This included a walk up to the Borris Viaduct and Walk, which was commissioned by Arthur McMorrough Kavanagh to extend the railway from Borris to Palace East in Wexford at a cost of 20,000 pounds.
Building the viaduct attracted labourers from Dublin as well as local areas, some who married locally and were absorbed into the local population.
A move down from Dubliin to absorb yourself in the local population. There’s an idea!