Weekend bites

This week I’ll be eating… salsify or, possibly, scorzonera which is exactly the same thing but it comes with a black skin. These are uncommon vegetables, but buyable at farmers’ markets and from really good greengrocers like Fallon & Byrne during Autumn and Winter. Sometimes called “the vegetable oyster” they have slightly sweet, slightly mineral flavour. Peel very shallowly and steam the roots until just tender then slice and fry in butter. Serve with lemom wedges. The great modern English chef, Rowley Leigh likes to make fritters from lengths of salsify root. Inspired by his time in Austria, Gary “Gaz” Smith is having a Goose Week at his Michael’s of Mount Merrion restaurant 21 to 19 Neovember. If you saw my review back in July you will know that this is a chef who cooks sublimely and simply. Dishes will include roast goose with crispy skin, homemade potato dumplings and roast apple and red cabbage, goose stew with lovage and, of course, foie gras. More details soon at michaels.ie Would you like to have your own beef cattle but don’t have a farm? Help is at hand. James Whelan Butchers beef bonds gives you a share in one of their Hereford, Angus, Kobe or Wagyu cattle which graze all year round on lush Tipperary pastures. The €100 bonds (€150 for wagyu and kobe) mature in 10 to 12 weeks and carry a minimum weight which, if exceeded, is a bonus. Your share of the animal is craft-butchered, beautifully presented and delivered in Ireland or the UK. I can attest to the meat’s quality. You could be forgiven for thinking that everything that can be written about Christmas cooking has been done so by now. This is why I was so impressed by Neven Maguire’s Perfect Irish Christmas (Gill), just published. It manages to be practical, novel, encouraging, intriguing and, above all, reassuring. I was sceptical when I opened it and a convert by the time I had barely flicked through. See recipe opposite. gillbooks.ie