All at sea and far from ship shape on corona cruise that was to be trip of a lifetime

The warning signs were there even before our departure. But the cruise was to be a trip of a lifetime, a celebration of a long working life. So we ignored the signs and, excited as a pair of naive hobbits setting off to Mordor, we boarded a flight to join the Costa Victoria for a three-week voyage from Dubai to Venice. The day before departure we learned the initial departure point of Malé in the Maldives was cancelled. But little did we realise the anxieties that lay ahead – the terror of isolated rooms, with dinner delivered on trays by crew in hazmat suits – as we enjoyed two days in Dubai, and even as departure was delayed an extra day amid confusion about future ports of call.

We first sailed to Muscat, in the United Arab Emirates, a city of contrasts – old souks and modern highways – and then to the surprising city of Salalah. There we learned the port of Dubai was now closed. Suddenly – as ports in Israel and Jordan started denying ships entry – it was clear our itinerary was up in the air.

In order to reach the Mediterranean, we made haste to join other vessels in the appointed position as convoy leader into the Suez Canal.

It was an ominous trip to the mouth of the canal and our ship had a watchful security detail and highpressure water cannon, for fear of pirates as we passed Yemen and Somalia.

When we did arrive to take part in the slow, steady convoy entering the Suez, it harked back to an age when the world was more sedate, with time taken for a ritual cup of steaming tea. But amid all that elegance there were armed guards lining the canal, as the fertile strip that is Egypt unfolded before us.

By now news was reaching us of a world in the grip of fear of a virus.

Frayed tempers and anxiety told their own story, and the captain had his work cut out to keep a steady hand on the rudder. But it was clear, urgent even, that we needed to set out for Europe without delay. However, we learned that the Victoria is registered in Italy, of all places, and subject to its laws.

The rules of social distancing largely ended entertainment and access to certain parts of the ship. Distances between seats were measured and an assiduous level of hygiene set in place. We were grateful to the captain and his crew for their dedication.

But emotions ran riot among some, and the ship was alive with rumour. At meetings to ease our fears, the captain faced a barrage from anxious passengers, seeking certainty in a very uncertain world. One person demanded an assurance of full protective clothing if we exited in Venice.

Others failed to grasp that we could not choose the port to dock, and the only constant was uncertainty.

We understood that Costa would seek to repatriate all passengers (and I hope crew) but, moored off Crete, our concern turned to the people ashore. Lives were being lost and livelihoods shattered, no section of society is untouched. And we heard worrying stories from our homes in Australia. There are about 300 Australians aboard, waiting anxiously to rejoin families and loved ones.

Then two days ago, a passenger was taken to Crete, and later tested positive. We instantly left Crete at almost top speed to enter Italian waters. Guests were confined to cabins. Food was left at our door on trays at about 10pm, and the eerie feeling of being a participant in a sci-fi movie took hold. Staff come to our door in hazmat suits, and all we learn is we have no docking information.

There are about 740 guests on board, and a similar complement of crew.

Many guests are aged, with some infirm. As we passed Stromboli, smoke rose from the crater, and, as ever, it was the camaraderie and friendship that sustained us. We looked to find meal times by ringing friends on different levels and gained what tidbits we could from our fellow passengers. There have been complaints that we have no sanitisers in the rooms, that we floated aimlessly and that the captain fails to keep us informed; but we have individual bathrooms with soap.

So we sail past Stromboli, which saluted us with a large plume of smoke, and continue on this mystery voyage. In the meantime, we are offered a free tour with Costa and can amuse ourselves by dreaming of further destinations. Optimism still at the helm.