The one dish wonder

Makes 10 portions

IT’S always good to have a wellstocked freezer but it’s even better when you have actual meals tucked away there, ideally in one or two-portion amounts. And it doesn’t really take any more effort to cook a big batch of something like stew, sauce or casserole than the normal amount.

What I’m suggesting here is batch-cooking one of the great comfort foods — and we all really need comfort now — in the form of the definitive Irish stew. Everything goes into the casserole, so you save on washing up. But what is the definitive Irish stew? Is there such a thing.

The late great Myrtle Allen of Ballymaloe House claimed that carrots in Irish stew are a Munster thing. On the other hand, Maura Laverty (who wrote Full and Plenty, the book on which I was raised) includes carrots and I’m pretty sure she was from Dublin. Constance Spry, who — little known fact — was born in Dublin, omits carrots from the recipe in her monumental cookbook, while Monica Sheridan, who lived in Killiney, similarly eschews them.

All these kitchen giants agree that Irish stew is made in layers comprising lamb neck chops, onions, potatoes (and carrots if you’re so inclined; Maura Laverty controversially includes a little chopped celery). They all agree there’s stock, and thyme (Monica), mixed herbs and bay leaf (Constance), parsley (Maura and Myrtle) and chives (Myrtle).

I insist on thyme, because it was mother’s favourite herb and its aroma always brings back happy, comforting, loving memories. On parsley, I’m agnostic but it does brighten up a dish that, frankly, looks pretty monochrome. Chives? I don’t think they bring much to the party.

As for making Irish stew in layers, it’s a great idea if you’re making a big pot of the stuff for the family but if you’re going to freeze your stew in portions, it’s easier to make it... well, just like a stew.

Generally, browning and caramelising is a good idea, making meat look more attractive and bringing out the sweetness in vegetables. But doesn’t seem traditional in Irish stew and, frankly, this makes an easy dish even quicker to prepare.

Anyway, this is how I cooked my big batch of Irish stew and, although I say so myself, it was darn good. But judge for yourself.