Carlingford offers natural highs
JUST across Carlingford Lough the crags of the Mountains of Mourne rise steeply out of the sea. Behind, the gaunt ruggedness of Slieve Foye, the highest peak in the Cooley Mountains, towers defiantly. Beyond is the ever-restless Irish Sea.
Who could possibly have conquered this naturally defended vastness?
Well, quite a lot of people as it happens. The Normans for one. They built King John’s Castle at the edge of Carlingford Lough. Northwards was beyond the Pale, as far as the castle’s tenants were concerned. It was why their Carlingford castle had a murder hole — still intact — just above the welcome mat. If it turned out you weren’t that welcome (as it often did) boiling water, tar, arrows and rocks would rain down on your head.
The visceral nature of Irish history has left the medieval town of Carlingford with two castles, a Dominican friary, muscular looking harbour, and a handful of fine (well-protected) Georgian buildings — which isn’t bad going for a village with only a few hundred souls.
Before the Normans, it was the turn of giants, wee folk, banshees and assorted spirits to visit. They lived in the mountains, getting up to all sorts. And that’s not just paddywhackeray. The early Celts developed a cauldron of supernatural beliefs and mythology that has lasted until today.
The Cooleys are exciting, atmospheric, romantic. Semiwild horses gallop up the hillside, sheep graze peacefully, and throughout spring and into summer you’ll likely hear the mournful call of the curlew.
They’re not big mountains — none over 700 metres — but they’re excellently stagemanaged. You simply start at the old harbour and walk past a Georgian mansion, Ghan House. This is one of the finest restaurant-hotels you’ll find anywhere — inventive cuisine in an old stone palace, and one with stupefyingly terrific views. Peep over the salted rim of your margarita and you can choose between two ranges of mountains. It’s one of the best ways you can explore the uplands.