Dance a Viennese waltz to SLOVAKIA
Bratislava a worthy alternative for history buffs
LET me tell you something. Bratislava is so beautiful that some people decide to stay in the cheaper hotels down in Vienna and make day trips to the Slovak capital.
Eva, our official guide, told me this 25-carat globule of information with a straight face, so I’ve no reason to doubt her.
Bratislava’s first mention in historical sources is in 907AD, or its momentous change of name from Pressburg just over 100 years ago.
Whether some tourists enjoy the sights of Bratislava and then drive home to lodge in cheap Viennese B&Bs, I can only leave you to speculate on. But I am able to tell you that the Slovak capital certainly mirrors the history of Vienna. Indeed, the two cities — the EU’s closest capitals at just 60km apart — have been subject to the same great grinding mill of central European history.
Both cities have lived under many empires, from the Holy Roman to the EU, and all have left their imprint on these ancient places.
Bratislava Castle is the main landmark of the city, high on a plateau overlooking the town. A dominant feature for centuries, you get excellent views across Bratislava, as well as parts of Austria and Hungary.
Meanwhile, Eva was into her stride as we ambled along the ancient, cobbled streets. ‘The Celtic Boii tribe founded the first significant settlement then the Greeks came.’ Suddenly, an unpredicted mood swing. Dolefully, Eva announced, ‘Then the Romans came... then the Slavs, Ottomans, yes, the Hapsburgs, the Fascists, the communists, the Czechs. But they’re all gone now. And now we have nobody left to blame but ourselves.’ She almost sobbed. Eva wasn’t taking questions, so I never did find out what was weighing down the Slovak people so onerously.
Unenlightened, our press trip party moved on through the Old Town. We marvelled at the contrast of Hapsburg and Eastern Bloc architectural styles, admired the tight tangle of medieval streets, and admired the seductive Mittel Europa cafe culture.
Bratislava is central Europe writ large — old rattling trams, snug ale houses, wine cellars, castles, churches and, of course, a big river.
Even Eva seemed to sense our delight. The mood lightened, and we were soon in receipt of more startling information. The Danube flows through ten countries, yet not one of them calls it that. In Slovak it’s the Dunaj — and provides wonderfully leafy walks along its banks. You could walk, or indeed waltz, from here to Budapest. Further if you wanted.
The mention of waltzing quickly brought Eva to the subject of music. As early as the 18th century, Bratislava was fortissimo in the music business — Franz Liszt started out here, and Beethoven was a regular visitor since first performing in Venturskala Street as a six-year-old.
Bartok and Rubenstein were both residents, and the music continues — if you’re into classical, opera or ballet, you should make your way here allegrissimo.
The beautifully restored Slovak National Theatre (snd.sk) presents concerts of the highest order; on the same square, the Redoute concert hall is home to the Slovak Philharmonic, one of Europe’s finest.
The Slovak capital is languid, beautiful, yet reliably eventful. You’re never more than a few metres from tumultuous historical event; but then neither are you too far from a cafe or pub.
Its inhabitants are peaceable and convivial — they even call their (fairly) recent spilt with the Czech Republic the Velvet Divorce. I wouldn’t be surprised if their national anthem, ‘Nad Tatrou sa blyska’, translates as ‘Why don’t we all just go down to the pub’.
At the end of our stay Eva had somewhat recovered her sunny side. She even told us to ‘enjoy’, and to be sure to come back.
And do you know — I think I very well might. I’m going to check out some cheap lodgings in Vienna forthwith.