WHAT A MEZZE
A journey to the eastern end of the Med
YOU probably don’t go to Beirut for a relaxing weekend. Today, after years of war, and a devastating explosion at the port in 2020, it has recovered much of its former glamour. Today it’s a fast-pace metropolis, crowded, polluted, with chaotic traffic – driving here is only for the professional, the very brave or the criminally insane.
Power cuts are common — don’t get in a lift if you suffer from claustrophobia; there’s a reasonable chance you might get stuck. It happened to me on my second day, for at least half an hour. To be fair, it was probably less than ten minutes, but felt like an hour, so let’s settle on 20 minutes.
My lift companions, a young Tunisian couple, were philosophical about the delay, and very chatty. I now know more about weddings in Tunis than I ever thought possible. But the experience made me realise that the person I’d most like to be stuck in a lift with is the lift engineer.
Once the memory of the lift incarceration lifted, I was able to concentrate on Beirut’s exciting, intoxicating, atmospheres, one of the best places to see the East collide with the West with glorious panache.
The city that was once referred to ‘the Paris of the Middle East’ has attracted Hollywood glitterati, writers, thinkers, diplomats, artists and plenty of ne’er-do-wells on the lam. And of course warmongers, troublemakers, freedom fighters, religious zealots and whatever you’re having yourself.
You’ll hardly need me to remind you that Lebanon has a complex and tumultuous recent history. At one stage you could choose to be involved in any one of three separate wars.
But by the 1990s the aggro had subsided, and Beirut returned to what it’s good at — dining, partying, drinking cocktails, clubbing, stocking up with local wine and heading for the Mediterranean beaches.
Beirut steadily rebuilt, regaining much of its cultural importance as well as enhancing its reputation as one of the friendliest and clubbiest places in the Middle East.
Then in 2020 the city was once again devastated — by a bomb at the port. This was caused by ammonium nitrate, stored in a warehouse at the port for several years. The blast — which killed over 200 people, injured thousands, and caused widespread damage to the city — is widely considered to be a tragic accident, but an investigation is ongoing.
Rebuilding began, and Beirut is on the way to becoming, once again, the gem of the eastern Mediterranean.
The different cultures and influences that have visited Beirut over millennia are reflected in the city’s architecture, food, entertainment, culture and art.
Lebanese cuisine is Mediterranean, characterised by its use of herbs, spices, and fresh ingredients. Hummus, tabbouleh and falafel are all constants on Beirut menus.
Karam, on Bazerkan Street is one of the best places for authentic Lebanese dishes. Their shawarma, a dish originating in the Ottoman Empire, consists of lamb cut into thin slices, stacked in a cone-like shape, and roasted on a slowly-turning vertical spit. Basically a donor kebab, but don’t say that or you’ll be met with a huge side-dish of scorn Beirut claims that they invented the mezze — the Middle East or Turkish version of tapas — and at Karam, six small plates seem to be the least number you can order. Flat bread, yoghurt, harissa and olive oil are standard condiments Over the two floors, you can trace local history from Phoenician, Persian, Roman, to modern Arab.
For digs, Le Bristol is the place. Long a watering hole for A-listers from the silver screen and a meeting place for diplomats and academics, it retains is cosmopolitan air The hotel’s bistro and patisserie Les Gourmandises is the perfect place to have coffee and a sticky bun and grapple with the history, philosophy and heritage of the Arab Street.
It’s also a good place to get acquainted with wines from Lebanon’s renowned Ksara and Kefraya vineyards.
Breakfast ranges from exquisite French tarts and patisseries to Lebanese “hawader” — thick strained yoghurt, olives, ground herbs (fennel and oregano), crudités and loads of local honey.
Facilities at Le Bristol are what one would expect from a five-star city centre hotel. The receptionist, who seemed to be able to speak fluently in English, French and Arabic, told me that as well as a rooftop swimming pool there was a well-equipped gym. I told her that I was utterly determined not to use it.