H l d OF IRELAND
South-west Donegal is a base for celebs and set of a Netflix hit — and now it boasts a boutique hotel... By Kieran Cunningham
It doesn’t have California weather but south-west Donegal has a strong claim to be the Hollywood of Ireland. Matthew Broderick and Sarah Jessica Parker have a holiday home in Kilcar, visit a couple of times a year, and can be spotted browsing the aisles in Supervalu in Killybegs. Paul Mescal and Emily Watson lmed God’s Creatures in Glencolmcille two years ago, and the former’s famous O’neill’s shorts were on display during his regular jogs around the area.
One of Net ix’s recent hits is In the Land of Saints and Sinners — and it was lmed in Glencolmcille and Kilcar.
Liam Neeson, Ciaran Hinds, Kerry Condon, Niamh Cusack, Colm Meaney and Jack Gleeson — who memorably played Joffrey in Game of Thrones — are among a stellar cast.
They threw themselves into Donegal life, supping pints in the local pubs, taking boat trips and laughing and joking with fans.
Neeson has since sung the praises of Glencolmcille on American TV, something that Mescal did before him in an interview in Irish on TG4.
That the spectacular scenery of this region attracts lmmakers is nothing new. In the early 1990s, The Railway Station Man was lmed here — with Donald Sutherland and Julie Christie reuniting for the rst time since Don’t Look Now — as was BBC drama Murder in Eden’
The celeb spotting ‘in through’ — as this area is known in Donegal — goes into the sporting arena too. Cousins Seamus Coleman, the Ireland football captain, and Dessie Farrell, the Dublin manager, both have holiday homes here.
But what was missing for a long time was quality accomodation for tourists — something that has now been addressed with the opening last month of a spectacular new boutique hotel.
Carrick Gate has a prime spot in the village of the same name, which is at the eastern end of the Glencolmcille parish.
It hadn’t even been open a week when I stayed there in late April but you’d never have known it. There were no signs of any teething problems and the staff, led by manager Jessica Byrne, couldn’t have been more helpful and obliging.
Carrick Gate is the brainchild of Byrne siblings Frances, Michael and Hugh — who have excelled in businesses both in Ireland and the UK, and that expertise shows.
There are 10 bedrooms and, in a nice touch, all are named after local townlands — Drim, Teelin, Malin etc.
In the day job covering sport, I’ve travelled the globe since joining this newspaper in 1998.
So that brings with it a fair idea of what you want from a hotel, boutique or otherwise.
It’s not always about location, location, location either. There was one hotel that had a prime spot beside Times Square but, unfortunately, it was full of rooms that were also prime spots for cockroach breeding.
There have been plenty of ne hotels too, big and small, and I’d genuinely rate Carrick Gate up there with the best I’ve experienced.
During renovations or revamps, you often nd corners are cut that quickly become noticeable. Not here, the building has been nished to a high standard and clearly a lot of thought has gone into everything from the vertical radiators to the window blinds to the artwork on the walls to the bathroom ttings.
It’s an ideal place to explore the area and, believe me, there’s plenty to explore.
Sliabh Liag, the highest sheer sea cliffs in Europe at 1972 feet — nearly three times the height of the Cliffs of Moher — are just a couple of miles away down the Teelin Road and they’re one of the biggest attractions on the entire Wild Atlantic Way.
I’d recommend a couple of pit stops along the way. Brew In Thru is one of the best of the cast of thousands of coffee trucks you’ll nd around the country at various tourist stops.
And The Rusty Mackerel — a favoured spot of SJP — is famed for its food and traditional music. Last year, it won the award for Best Gastro Pub in Ireland.
No visit to this area is complete without
“You’d pass a pleasant hour looking at the photographs on the walls...”
taking to the water with Sliabh Liag Boat Tours, and there is no better guide than owner Paddy ‘Murdoch’ Byrne, the saltiest of salty sea dogs.
In the village of Carrick itself, there are two pubs worth a visit. Hegarty’s Slieve League Lodge — where ne accomodation is also available — is a must for GAA fans, in particular.
You’d pass a pleasant hour looking at the photographs on the walls — something that former Ireland manager Stephen Kenny did last summer.
Like Evelyn’s Central Bar across the road — a joint that is often jumping — there is regular live music and the recent addition of Italian chef Davide Tullio is a big plus.
You are in the hills of Donegal so hill walking is recommended, as is cycling. If the hills prove too steep, then make it easier for yourself by renting an electric bike from Donegal E-bikes in Carrick.
Of course, you are just on the edge of the Glencolmcille parish so it’s worth heading six miles in the road and, from there, you can explore everything from the famed Folk Village to the sublime beaches to Glen Head with its Martello Tower from the Napoleonic wars.
Glencolmcille has also become a magnet for Irish language learners with Oideas Gael one of the most successful schools for adults in the country.
Just ask former President Mary Mcaleese, former Taoiseach Leo
Varadkar, renowned poet Paul Muldoon and iconic singer Damien Dempsey.
They all went to Oideas Gael for classes in recent years.
A trek to Port, a deserted village in the mountains, is recommended. Famed Welsh poet Dylan Thomas lived nearby in Glenlough for a spell in the 1930s.
After all that, you’ll want some refreshment. An Cistin, the Lace House and the Glen Head Tavern are all good dining options in Glencolmcille.
Carrick Gate will be waiting for you and, when you return, it will feel like a home from home.
With the fresh sea air in this area, you’ll sleep like a baby. Breakfast is continental buffet style — and of high quality, like everything about Carrick Gate.
Room prices start at €140 per night, and family rooms at a very reasonable rate are available. Full details can be found on www.carrickgate.com, or by calling 00353 86 8112292.