Vi­va­cious, ve­gan and kind

Katie Wright gets the lowdown on avoid­ing an­i­mal prod­ucts in the beauty de­part­ment should you turn ve­gan

Irish Examiner - Feelgood - - Beauty -

IF you’re one of the thou­sands of peo­ple who’ve de­cided to cut out meat, dairy, eggs and all other an­i­mal-de­rived foods from your diet, you might not yet have con­sid­ered that the prod­ucts on your bath­room shelf don’t nec­es­sar­ily ad­here to your new life­style.

An­i­mal in­gre­di­ents in cos­met­ics aren’t al­ways easy to spot, but more and more com­pa­nies are com­mit­ting to re­move them, and that can ben­e­fit not only those crea­tures, but also us hu­mans too.

“Choos­ing cru­elty-free skin­care is some­thing that every­one can do and helps to pre­vent un­nec­es­sary an­i­mal suf­fer­ing,” says Char­lotte Vo­htz, founder of Green Peo­ple.

And if you choose wisely, you won’t have to com­pro­mise on qual­ity — as long-term #ve­g­an­life vet­er­ans can at­test.

Here, Vo­htz talks us through the ve­gan beauty ba­sics, and we round-up the best plant-pow­ered skin­care, hair and make-up buys...

What are the ben­e­fits of us­ing ve­gan beauty prod­ucts?

“Skin­care that has been ap­proved by the Ve­gan So­ci­ety will not have been tested on an­i­mals or con­tain any an­i­mal byprod­ucts.

“Green Peo­ple’s ve­gan range is Ve­gan So­ci­ety cer­ti­fied and is also plant-based. This means that each prod­uct con­tains a com­plex of plant (phyto) ac­tives, which re­store the skin’s pH and mois­ture bal­ance, with­out the need for added harsh chem­i­cals, known to have a detri­men­tal ef­fect on the skin.”

Are ve­gan prod­ucts bet­ter for the en­vi­ron­ment?

“An­i­mal wel­fare aside, by sim­ply go­ing cru­elty-free, you won’t be af­fect­ing your en­vi­ron­men­tal im­pact through your cos­metic choices.

“To help pre­serve the planet and sup­port the growth of our nat­u­ral world, look for prod­ucts that are cer­ti­fied cru­elty-free and or­ganic.

“This way, you can be sure the prod­ucts you put on your skin are pro­duced in an en­vi­ron­ment that won’t harm our planet for fu­ture gen­er­a­tions.”

What are the most com­mon an­i­mal-de­rived in­gre­di­ents found in beauty prod­ucts?

“Some of the most com­monly-used an­i­mal in­gre­di­ents are fatty acids de­rived from tal­low or lard. These in­clude stearic acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid, all of which can be ex­tracted from an­i­mal fats ob­tained as slaugh­ter­house by-prod­ucts.

“Milk is also used as a source of some in­gre­di­ents that can be used in cos­met­ics, such as the pro­teins ca­sein and al­bu­min, and lac­tic acid, which is some­times used to ad­just the pH bal­ance of skin­care prod­ucts.

“Ker­atin helps make your nails and hair strong and healthy, but can be de­rived from ground-up horns, hooves, feath­ers and an­i­mal hair.

“Love the wob­ble of your jelly face mask and jelly cleanser? Much like the jelly in desserts, jelly-based skin­care can be made of gela­tine, a pro­tein ob­tained by boil­ing an­i­mal car­casses with wa­ter.”

What are some more un­usual in­gre­di­ents that peo­ple might not know come from an­i­mal sources?

“As Korean beauty has risen in pop­u­lar­ity, so has the use of snail se­cre­tion as an anti-age­ing in­gre­di­ent in mois­turis­ers, serums, face masks and foun­da­tions. Har­vest­ing the in­gre­di­ent is thought to cause the snails dis­tress, as they pro­duce se­cre­tion as a re­sponse to feel­ing threat­ened.

“Seventy thou­sand fe­male cochineal bee­tles are boiled and crushed to pro­duce 1lb of carmine, a red dye which is used in lip­sticks, eye­shad­ows and nail var­nishes.

“Lano­lin is a wa­ter-re­pelling in­gre­di­ent of­ten found in balms and salves, and is a wax se­creted by the se­ba­ceous glands of sheep and other wool-bear­ing an­i­mals.

“Squa­lene is de­rived from the liv­ers of deep sea sharks, which are threat­ened with ex­tinc­tion. It’s un­com­mon to find it in cos­met­ics these days, but can be found in some mois­turis­ers.”

What ve­gan al­ter­na­tives are used for these in­gre­di­ents, and how do you en­sure the qual­ity of the prod­ucts is main­tained?

“The al­ter­na­tive in­gre­di­ents we use in­clude squalane in­stead of squa­lene, quinoa in place of ker­atin and nat­u­ral oils in place of tal­low.

“We main­tain the qual­ity by for­mu­lat­ing our prod­ucts us­ing only cer­ti­fied or­ganic plant ac­tives known for hav­ing ben­e­fi­cial prop­er­ties.

“We also never com­pro­mise the qual­ity of our prod­ucts by adding syn­thetic in­gre­di­ents such as SLS, parabens or sil­i­cones.”

Best of ve­gan beauty

Green Peo­ple Quinoa & Ar­ti­choke Sham­poo, €17.45

Tata Harper Beau­ti­fy­ing Face Oil, €80, Arnotts

Tril­ogy Cream Cleanser 200ml €28.50, Hol­land & Bar­rett

Skyn Ice­land Pure Cloud Cream, €55, Marks and Spencer

Yope Yun­nan Shower Gel, €7.90, Nour­ish.ie

Eliz­a­beth and James Nir­vana Amethyst Eau de Par­fum,€108, Brown Thomas

Hour­glass Am­bi­ent Light­ing Edit Vol­ume 4, €81, Arnotts

Ur­ban De­cay Naked Skin Weight­less Ul­tra Def­i­ni­tion Liq­uid Makeup, €34.50, Deben­hams

B. HD Dual Wand Mas­cara, €12.45, Su­per­drug

Ax­i­ol­ogy Lip­stick in At­ti­tude, €24.90, Con­tent Beauty & Well­be­ing One of the ma­jor trends on the AW18 cat­walks was graphic black eye­liner. The fe­line look ruled ev­ery­where from Lon­don — where Molly God­dard’s mod­els were given thick wings — to Mi­lan, where a sharp matte black flick was painted with liq­uid eye­liner at Al­berta Fer­retti. “Liq­uid liner is great to cre­ate a clean and de­fined eye and is never far from the cat­walks ev­ery sea­son, how­ever many women avoid this look,” says Col­lec­tion make-up artist Francesca Neil. That’s be­cause the shape of your eye can greatly af­fect what type of eye­liner suits you. Get it right, and you’ll re­ally en­hance your eyes — get it wrong and you risk mak­ing them look smaller, which no­body wants. So what’s the best ap­proach for your peep­ers? Here, Neil sets out the best kind of eye­liner for each eye shape and we se­lect five af­ford­able liq­uid lin­ers so you can get prac­tis­ing... Close-set eyes If you’ve got close-set eyes, Neil rec­om­mends a dou­ble wing look. “This is a re­ally fun look to play with for a night out! A winged end will draw at­ten­tion to­wards the outer edge of the eye, mak­ing them ap­pear wider apart. Dou­ble the wing? Dou­ble the ef­fect...” Down­turned eyes “Those with down­turned eyes can find winged eye­liner re­ally frus­trat­ing,” Neil says. “If you stick with a reg­u­lar cat-eye shape, this could ex­ag­ger­ate the down­ward shape.” “The eas­i­est tech­nique for lift­ing the eye is to stick to ap­ply­ing liner to the lower lash line. Fol­low the nat­u­ral line and ex­tend the mini-flick di­rectly up.” Hooded eyes “The thick winged look is per­fect for hooded eyes as it will lift and open them,” Neil rec­om­mends. “Draw a line from the cor­ner of your eye to­wards the brow bone and join up be­fore us­ing a kohl pen­cil across the outer lower lash line to cre­ate a per­fectly lifted wing ef­fect.” Large or round eyes If you’re blessed with Bambi-like eyes, use an eye pen­cil on the wa­ter­line rather than a liq­uid liner on your lids. Neil says: “This is a great look for large eyes as trac­ing the wa­ter­line will ac­cen­tu­ate the shape of the eye, it is also a good op­tion if your eyes are wide set as it will draw at­ten­tion to­wards the in­ner cor­ner.” Smaller or mono­lid eyes “You re­ally just need a very sim­ple line to en­hance the shape. You don’t want any­thing too heavy oth­er­wise you could risk your eyes look­ing smaller,” Neil says, rec­om­mend­ing a fine wing on the lids. “Drag the eye­liner straight across the lid and ex­tended the line out to roughly the end of your brow. “Adding a lit­tle drama such as metal­lic or glit­ter to the top eye line only is a great way to open them up and draw at­ten­tion to the top lashes. Ap­ply over black liq­uid liner or pen­cil to com­plete this look for smaller eyes. “To in­ten­sify, curl lashes and coat the top lashes with plenty of mas­cara or false lashes.”

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