Fac­ing up to world of colour

Yel­low eye­liner and blue mas­cara can be wear­able once you don’t go over­board with the crazy look, says Katie Wright

Irish Examiner - Feelgood - - Beauty -

IF red lippy is about as bright as your make-up usu­ally gets, pre­pare to shake things up, be­cause back­stage at the au­tumn/ win­ter shows there was an ab­so­lute ex­plo­sion of colour — and it was all about the eyes.

From elec­tric blue and haz­mat or­ange liner to scar­let eye­shadow and mas­cara in shades we didn’t even know ex­isted, these were se­ri­ously bold looks.

“The ex­is­tence of colour on the face now isn’t about co-or­di­na­tion or it ‘match­ing’ the clothes,” says MAC make-up artist Terry Bar­ber.

“It just works as a de­tail in it­self... and is a make-up choice that’s very know­ing, in the sense that it’s pur­pose­fully a bit ‘wrong’, but not weird.

“The new way to wear colour is bor­der­line bad taste, but it still looks beau­ti­ful.”

So how do you take these crazy cat­walk cre­ations and make them taste­ful? The key is tak­ing sat­u­rated hues and ap­ply­ing them in a more sub­tle way, so you get all the colour pay­off and none of the weird­ness.

Here’s how to make three cat­walk-in­spired looks work for you...

1. Hot lines

“Clean, sim­ple, wear­able” is how MAC make-up artist Lucy Bridge de­scribed the look at Eudon Choi.

We’re not sure that thick yel­low and red rings of eye­liner count as wear­able in our book, but the colours sure are beau­ti­ful, and there were creamy, sat­u­rated liner looks at Kenzo (bright yel­low), Dior (deep red), and Palmer Harding (elec­tric blue) as well, see pic­ture.

To tone down this out-there look, take a highly pig­mented cream eye­liner and ap­ply it right on the lash line in a neat, sharp flick rather than a thick float­ing line.

On the cat­walks, mod­els’ lashes were left bare, but com­ple­ment­ing your bright liner with lots of black mas­cara helps dif­fuse the colour slightly.

Mor­phe Gel Liner Vi­ta­min Sea, €11, eu­mor­phe.com

Dior Dior­show On Stage Liner Matte Yel­low, €34, Boots

Shi­seido Ka­jal InkArtist Rose Pagoda, €25.45, look­fan­tas­tic

2. Lash clash

At Dries Van Noten, make-up artist Peter Phillips gave mod­els huge false eye­lashes in no less than eight dif­fer­ent colours, in­clud­ing neon yel­low, dark green, vi­o­let, and brick red.

Coloured mas­cara has been hav­ing a re­nais­sance lately (yet an­other ’90s throw­back) so you have a whole rain­bow of op­tions, but for be­gin­ners royal blue and for­est green are your best bet.

Keep the rest of your eye makeup neu­tral and let your lashes do the talk­ing.

NYX Worth the Hype Vo­lu­miz­ing & Length­en­ing Mas­cara Blue, €11, Boots

YSL Mas­cara Vinyl Cou­ture I’m The Ex­cite­ment, €27.62, re­duced from €32,50, Deben­hams

3. Cloud colour

It was all about ’80s in­spi­ra­tion at the Lulu Guin­ness and Ashley Wil­liams shows, where pinky-red pow­der acted as both blusher and eye­shadow, buffed from the eye­lids to the cheeks.

If you’re used to pale peach blusher this look might be a bit scary, and if you’ve got red un­der­tones in your skin it’s best avoided, but a red-toned smoky can be re­ally flat­ter­ing.

Ex­per­i­ment with a pal­ette, start­ing with lighter shades and build­ing up to brick red or burgundy on the outer corner of your eye.

Again, on the cat­walks this was a bare lashes look but a cou­ple of coats of your favourite black mas­cara will add def­i­ni­tion.

Rev­o­lu­tion Re-Loaded Pal­ette New­trals 2, €5.49, Sam McCauley Chemists

Huda Beauty Ob­ses­sions Pre­cious Stones Eye­shadow Pal­ette Ruby, €28, Brown Thomas

Pic­ture: PA/Sam McKnight

BRIGHT EYES: Mod­els on the cat­walk at Palmer Harding AW18.

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