Champagne

Katy McGuinness

Although there are plenty of good sparkling wines, it’s nice to push the boat out and have real champagne on Christmas Day. We asked Lynne Coyle, master of wine and the wine wirector of O’Briens, to explain why it’s so expensive: “Champagne can only come from the designated region in France by that name, therefore its production is limited as new plantings are restricted. Most Champagne comes from the large houses but the majority of grapes need to be bought from growers as most houses do not own vineyards. While the price of grapes is set annually, often the houses get into bidding wars to secure grapes, so prices increase. The reported cost of one hectare of planted vineyards (if you can find someone willing to sell ) is over €1m. “Production costs are also high with two fermentations, the second in bottle. The wine must then spend 15 months in bottle before it can be sold – in practice, most houses would not release the wine for at least two years and many wait up to four years for a non-vintage Champagne. In addition, bottle costs, corks and packaging are higher than for table wines.”

Granzamy Grower Champagne €24.95 – exclusive to obrienswines.ie

From a family winery that grows its own grapes and makes its own wine. As the winery is not buying grapes and does not have the costs of branding and marketing of a well-known Champagne house, it can offer exceptional value. Made from black grapes only (Pinot Noir & Pinot Meunier) it has a fruity aroma profile with a hint of toasted brioche – it would be good with canapes as well as shellfish or smoked salmon starters.

Lanson Black Label NV €37.95 at O’Briens, widely available

One of the Grande Marque Champagne houses, Lanson was established in 1860. This is a blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier grapes, from up to ten different years, and spends three years in the house’s cellars before release. The Lanson style is fruity, restrained and elegant, with the emphasis on a green apple fruit profile and a fresh after taste, and makes a great aperitif.

Laurent Perrier Rosé €77 at O’Briens, widely available

Launched in the 1960s, this is an iconic rosé Champagne. This is a family-owned Champagne House, and some grapes come from its own estate. Salmon pink in colour, with raspberry, redcurrants and strawberries on the nose and a supple fruit-driven palate, this is perfect with canapes and looks great with a raspberry in the glass.