Winter roses – and three graces of silk, leather and satin – among the thorns for Simone’s new collection
SIMONE Rocha’s new ‘Winter Roses’ collection leaves you in no doubt that this 34-year-old designer is never going to rest on her laurels.
Ten years after launching her eponymous label at London Fashion Week, the Dubliner’s intention was to challenge herself in a new direction and “push through” in AW21.
Her ambitions saw her explore new ideas with a clarity and identity, using her ‘Three Graces’ of satin, leather and silk.
There was volume and a play on proportion and feminine, highly embellished ‘creeping flower’ embroideries in tulle and net, pretty cameos made from porcelain, floral painted pearl earrings and extra-chunky boots in punched black and white leather.
However, it was the introduction of a black leather story and Simone’s signature take on the biker jacket, coats and dress that delivered a surprise for her hardcore fans yesterday as they watched her London Fashion Week (LFW) film, shot in a gothic London church last weekend.
The light changes through the stained glass windows as the eight models – a quarter of the number she would normally use in a LFW catwalk show – came through with pieces that spoke of fragility and strength.
Simone has worked with leather before, but not in such a specific way.
She referenced the classic biker jacket – for some, a fashion uniform – and in her hands this protective piece gets a tiny ruffle on the shoulder.
A waisted style comes with a bulbous hip, or a drop shoulder gets a big organic sleeve.
As the designer acknowledged, “It was so important for me to manipulate it so that it still felt part of my world and my identity, but also challenged in a new direction, to push it further.”
Simone’s woman next season is a “fragile rebel”.
In the analogy of the rose as a mix of fragility and strength with petals and thorn, she created 3D luxury roses on the surface of the garments.
But this was more than just a device.
It was a reaction to where designers found themselves this season, presenting collections to a digital audience rather than staging a catwalk show during lockdown.
Simone admitted she didn’t want to be held back by not having a physical show and it only made her want to make things 3D in this 2D world.
“It actually made me want to make clothes that were really intricate,” the designer explained.
The film, which started with her new leathers, concludes with her layered tulles with fragile components that still have “real strength”.
While she acknowledges that film brings her to a wider audience, she admits she misses the energy and visual feeling that comes with a catwalk show.